14 Coleus Varieties to bring Color to your Shade Garden

Do you need plants for your shade garden? Let’s talk about one amazing plant that’s coming back into the modern garden… coleus! Whether to add to a more formal garden bed, or be placed in a colorful, moving pot, this plant just keeps giving us more and greater flexibility and styles. And because of its ability to grow fast from seed, we have a lot of different coleus varieties for the shade! Plant breeders have had a fun time discovering new colors and patterns… from the vibrant, smooth greens, to the twisted, curly reds, this plant has been doing it all! And remember, coleus does well in shade or in partial sun. It also does best in slightly moist soil. So here are 14 of the most common types of coleus varieties for your shade garden!

Note: The scientific name of Coleus is Solenostemon scutellarioides, so technically all of the following names are S. scutellarioides ‘Variety’. However, most nurseries will recognize the name Coleus much faster, so I will refer to them simply as Coleus.

Click here to subscribe

1. Coleus ‘Watermelon’

This Coleus does great in the flower beds, with a bright pink center rimmed with a light green, almost feathery leaf. This is one of the most popular varieties of coleus sold in garden centers. And, it is also one of my own personal favorites!

2. Coleus ‘Fishnet’

‘Fishnet’ Coleus adds a whole lot of texture to any landscape. With dark purple veins emphasizing the jagged cut leaves, this variety will make a bold statement. For an even more Gothic look, try out the variety ‘Under the Sea Fishnet’. A close relative, but quite the daring sibling.

3. Coleus ‘Alabama’

Also known as Alabama sunset, and sometimes called Alabama sunrise, this coleus features yellow centers, pink leaves, and a slightly toothed leaf texture.

4. Coleus ‘Dark Star’

This is a crowd favorite! The ‘Dark Star’ is a great way to add those deep black hues into the garden for the entire season. And these black plants add quite a bit of popular drama!

5. Coleus ‘Rustic Orange’

This Coleus is one of the several in the orange and red range. ‘Rustic Orange’ keeps it lighter with the yellow-green border, but there are several deep orange and red options too, such as ‘Ruby Slipper’, ‘Campfire’, and ‘Inferno’.

6. Coleus ‘Chocolate Covered Cherry’

Chocolate Covered Cherry is known for its bright red centers, dark red middles, and bright green edges. Quite the contrast in colors, this twisted foliage is sure to draw attention!

7. Coleus ‘Chaotic Rose’

While this Coleus brings a lot of the same colors as the ‘Chocolate Covered Cherry’, the thin, needle-like leaves add a much sharper texture. This can be very useful as a break from the many large, round flowering species’ foliage.

8. Coleus ‘Henna’

‘Henna’ is also a great texture plant. With it’s ruffled leaves and the distinctive reddish-brown color, this Coleus will definitely add some variety to a pot or even an entire bed. Coleus ‘Indian Summer’ is also very similar, but brings in more of a purple tone, rather than the more bold reds of ‘Henna’.

9. Coleus ‘Dipt in Wine’

This fantastic variety is also one of the crowd favorites! With very similar colors to ‘Chocolate Covered Cherry’ and ‘Chaotic Rose’, this variety has a distinctive speckling of the leaves, almost like the wine-colored reds are dripping off each individual leaf. This adds almost a mosaic of color from the entire plant.

10. Coleus ‘Painted Lady’

The ‘Painted Lady’ Coleus is very similar and often called the ‘Finger Paint’ Coleus. Both have very distinctive red splotches of color in a random scattering over the light green leaves.

11. Coleus ‘Trusty Rusty’

‘Trusty Rusty’ is a gorgeous blend of a red center with a light yellow-green border. This variety is also one of the more common varieties and is used in pots and beds as either group plantings, borders, or even individually. This is a well-adaptable variety that brings in that extra splash of color.

12. Coleus ‘Limelight’

There are several varieties of the bright green coleus, including ‘Limelight’, ‘Lime Time’, and ‘Electric Lime’. These all have very light, almost neon colors that look great backed against darker foliage.

13. Coleus ‘Inky Fingers’

Boasting its delicate, lobed foliage, the contrasting purple and green adds vibrant color as well as rich texture in the landscape.

14. Coleus ‘Chocolate Mint’

With just a ribbon of green to lace its edges, there is an almost delicate, lace feel to these leaves. The only thing is I wish this plant really smelled like chocolate mint!

That’s all I’ve included for today. However, there are over a thousand different cultivars of coleus varieties for the shade, so please be understanding if your favorite is not on this list. Please comment below if there are any more you’d like to share, and check out my post 12 Best Plants for the Shade for more plants that will do well in your shade garden!

Click here to subscribe

15 Interior Plants that Clean the Air

Interior plants will not only increase the oxygen levels in your home, but also will increase the humidity levels, and decrease the amount of air pollutants. These conditions have been scientifically linked to decreases in the amount of headaches, reduce stress, and brings an overall greater level of health! No wonder indoor plants are so great! But not all plants are equal. Here is a list of 15 awesome air cleaners for your home!

*For more details on the benefits of indoor plants, check out my post here!*

**Note: This post contains affiliate links, which if purchased, I will receive a portion of the profits at no extra cost to you. This helps support this blog and allows me to keep providing awesome information to you!**

Click here to subscribe

#1: English Ivy – Hedera helix

This vine does well individually, or as an ornamental ground cover in a larger pot. It comes in both a dark green, as well as an olive and cream variegation. It is very commonly found at most stores with a garden center.

English Ivy – Get it here!

Plants that Purify the Air; Hard to Kill Houseplants; Poisonous Houseplants; Small Houseplants

#2: Peace Lily – Spathiphyllum

With beautiful, dark green leaves, this plant is a high favorite. Though it may not always be in bloom, this plant is very forgiving and is very hard to kill. And remember, the bigger the pot, the bigger the plant. Especially for this guy.

Peace Lily – Get it here!

#3: Areca Palm – Dypsis lutescens

The Areca Palm, or Parlor Palm, is one of the most common palm trees used in interior decorating. And it’s no wonder! This beautiful palm adds softness and balance to any room. Then add in the health benefits, and it’s a no-brainer!

Areca Palm – Get it here!

#4: Boston Fern – Nephrolepis exaltata

This classic fern purifies the air at a surprisingly fast rate. It is also very common and easily found at local garden stores. While it can be used in a very wide variety of interior designs, as well as on porches and balconies, be careful of any dead leaves that this guy is famous for shedding.

Boston Fern – Get it here!

Plants that Purify the Air; Non-Toxic Houseplants

#5: Devil’s Ivy (Pothos) – Epipremnum aureum

Devil’s Ivy is one of my personal favorites. And who knew it was such a good air purifier?! There are several different varieties, including the Golden Pothos, the Marble Queen Pothos, and the Neon Pothos, giving you plenty of different looks to choose from.

Devil’s Ivy – Get it here!

Plants that Purify the Air; Plants for Low Light; Hard to Kill Houseplants; Poisonous Houseplants; Small Houseplants;

#6: Gerbera Daisy – Gerbera

This daisy has been getting more and more popular in the interiors. Known for its bright flowers, this plant is often discarded as it finishes flowering. However, the daisy plant will actually live for quite a while afterwards and may even flower again, leaving a lot of time for it to do its job cleaning the air in your home!

Gerbera Daisy – Get it here!

Plants that Purify the Air; Non-Toxic Houseplants

#7: Ficus tree – Ficus benjamina

Also known as a Weeping Fig, this plant can range from a small bush to a rather large tree! There is also a variegated ficus available that adds a bit more artistic flare to your home. Be careful though, as these plants don’t like drafts and also don’t like to be moved. To keep a ficus alive, one needs to find a good spot for it, and then keep it there.

Ficus tree – Get it here!

#8: Snake Plant – Sansevieria trifasciata

Another one of my favorites, the Snake Plant (also called Mother-in-Law’s Tongue) is extremely easy to grow. Very forgiving and with bold lines and colors, it brings a modern statement to any room.

Snake Plant – Get it here!

#9: Heartleaf Philodendron – Philodendron cordatum

Another awesome vine, the philodendron is often confused with the Pothos. However, the heart-shaped leaves give it a more cascading, classical look. There are also other common varieties as well, in particular the Velvet and Brazil varieties. These will also give you very distinctive looks with each variety.

Heartleaf Philodendron – Get it here!

#10: Aloe Vera – Aloe vera

The Aloe Vera plant is not only visually intriguing, but also a great air purifier, as well as has healing properties as well. Talk about one powerhouse plant! It can also flower, but from my experience the indoor aloe vera plants tend to not flower as often. This is one plant that I think every home should have!

Aloe Vera – Get it here!

#11: Umbrella Tree – Schefflera actinophylla

This plant is another one of my favorites! (Did I mention I LOVE plants?!) Though it may sometimes be a bit harder to find, the Umbrella tree, also simply called Schefflera, can come in sizes from a small plant to a large tree. It is also very hard to kill, as long as it isn’t over-watered.

Umbrella Tree – Get it here!

#12: Spider Plant – Chlorophytum comosum

A great choice for a small space, the Spider Plant won’t ever get too large. Instead, it will send off small shoots (called pups) that you can cut off and plant into a new pot! This causes it to be very hard to kill as you will always have plenty of little plants to replace it.

Spider Plant – Get it here!

Plants that Purify the Air; Plants for Low Light; Hard to Kill Houseplants; Non-Toxic Houseplants; Small Houseplants;

#13: Dracaena – Dracaena

There are many different types of dracaena out there and they all seem to be very good at cleaning the air. So feel free to choose a type of dracaena that will fit your space. From bushes to trees, from greens to reds, this is one plant that never gets old! Just make sure to not over-water this guy…

Dracaena – Get it here!

Plants that Purify the Air; Plants for Low Light; Poisonous Houseplants; Large Houseplants

#14: Jade Plant – Crassula ovata

This is a great plant for the indoors! With thick, succulent leaves it can deal with a bit of neglect. It is also very easy to cut back in order to keep it at the size you want.

Jade Plant – Get it here!

#15: Dumb Cane – Dieffenbachia

Also called Dieffenbachia, Dumb Cane can be toxic if eaten. However, it does do a fantastic job of cleaning your air and I’d say it looks pretty good while doing it! I love its dappled, large leaves. This can also be common in some garden stores, though it is usually only found in group plantings.

Dumb Cane – Get it here!

Plants that Purify the Air; Plants for Low Light; Poisonous Houseplants

Well there’s my list of 15 indoor plants that will clean the air! There are several more that also do a good job, I just tried to keep the list to some of the most common and easily available plants. Please comment below if there are any more you’d like to share!

Happy Digging!

**For more plants that clean the air, check out NASA’s list of top plants that clean the air!**

Click here to subscribe

How to Start Seeds Indoors: 10 Tips to have Success

Whether you’re getting a jump-start to your garden or simply want some plants around the house for a cheaper price, starting from seed is great! However, it can also sometimes be tricky and frustrating. But with these 10 tips and tricks, you’ll be planting like a pro! Here is how to grow seeds indoors, with 10 tips to ensure that you have success!

Click here to subscribe

Tip #1: Only use good seed…

This may seem like a no-brainer, but for all those who are hoarding seed packets out there, either plant them, or throw them out. Check the back of the seed packages for the expiration date. This date is when the seeds start getting less and less viable (fewer of the seeds will actually sprout). Storing seeds in a dry, cool place can prolong their lifespan, but make sure that you don’t wait too long. Also, purchase your seed from a reputable seed company, not just from some rando off the street! Remember, you won’t grow anything from a bad seed, no matter how good you are. (Yes, I’m looking at you seeds from ebay that never grow!!!)

Apium_graveolens_seeds
Photo by Amada44

Tip #2: Plant in shallow containers…

The depth of soil underneath your seedlings is actually very important. Due to some physics and absorbency ratios (which I’m not going to bore you with), basically, the more soil beneath, the harder it is for your seeds to get the water. But don’t go too shallow that there’s no room for your seedling. Somewhere in the 3″-6″ range should be good for most seed, but it may vary depending on the size of your seed. The smaller the seed, the less soil it needs beneath. The bigger the seed, the more soil it needs.

Grow Seeds Inside

Tip #3: Have proper drainage…

There are many different types of containers you can use for planting your seedlings in… from commercial seed pots, to handmade newspaper pots, to old salad containers. I’ve seen and used many different makeshift as well as professional pots. But one thing they all have to have in common is good drainage. Without proper drainage, all the water will soak to the bottom of the pot and stay there, leaving either just the top (where the seeds are) all dried up, or it can lead to a big wet mess (which can lead to a lot of other problems like mold and fungal growth). So if you are using any recycled plastics or containers, just poke some holes into the bottom to let some of that extra moisture out.

Grow Seeds Inside

Tip #4: Use good soil…

Not all soil is made the same… quite literally! I once bought some extremely cheap soil that turned out to be just a mix of clay and decomposing pine needles. And do you know what my plants did in it? Absolutely nothing. No growth, no flowering, no nothing. Basically, you get what you pay for. So don’t try to take a cheaper way out (unless you’re doing your own composting, in which case be very careful that it is done correctly.) But for seeds, use only clean soil – a good soil will have a weed seed count on the back. Try to get one with a very low weed seed count, as well as make sure it contains a lot of organic material. You can also purchase soil that is specifically for seedlings, as it may contain additional fertilizers or other ingredients that increase drainage and will give your seeds the best environment possible. So consult your budget and see what works best for you. But remember… with soil, you get what you pay for!

Tip #5: Don’t let it get too hot…

Don’t let your pots get too warm. This is different from heating mats, which I absolutely LOVE and recommend LIKE CRAZY!!!! (Here’s the heating mat that I personally use and LOVE!!!) While heating mats and bottom heat can be beneficial, make sure that there are no hot drafts blowing over the top of your little seedlings. The biggest culprit here is the heater. Don’t place your pots in direct line of these hot currents. You don’t want the top of your soil to dry out because it can cause your seedlings to wilt and to die from the top heat. You also don’t want to expose some seedlings to direct sunlight in hot temperatures. This can lead to drying out of the top of the soil, and it can also scorch any sensitive new seedlings emerging with their small, delicate leaves.

Tip #6: Don’t let it get too cold…

Just like tip #5, you want to keep your pots at a good temperature. Starting seeds during the winter can be hard as indoor temperatures are generally colder and there can also be dangerous cold drafts from windows and doors. A big thing is to add additional heat to your soil through a heating mat. Often, indoor temperatures are still too cold for the seedlings to germinate. To fix this (and to increase germination rates), you should heat up your soil with a heating mat. This will both increase the number of seeds that sprout, but it will also decrease the chances that your seeds will die from overwatering. For those in especially cold climates, one of the warmest places in your house during the winter is on top of your refrigerator (as long as it isn’t in direct line of a heater current). If the lighting isn’t good there, then move it once the seedlings come up. Which leads to our next tip…

Grow Seeds Inside

Tip #7: Have adequate lighting…

One of the biggest challenges indoors can be lighting. If you are lucky to have large windows and plenty of light, then enjoy! If not, then here are some tips. Having one good window as a light source, place the pot near the window (but not in any cold or hot drafts!) and turn the pot every time you water. This will help with straight growth. Now, if your seedlings are growing really tall, without a lot of leaves, then this is a sign that they need more light. There are lots of different options for supplemental lights, including boxes or strips that can even raise or lower, depending on your plant’s height. These can sometimes take up a lot of room, however, and may require some installation. My personal favorite, is this flexible lamp for those planting just a few seeds. This lamp is great for adjusting the light exactly as I need it and to continually move them as my plants get taller. Then, for those wanting to start their entire garden and then some from seed, then I would HIGHLY suggest you get this light! It’s a full-spectrum plant light that has kept my seedlings short and leafy all winter (and even grew me some GORGEOUS heads of lettuce last year in my indoor grow tent!) And on this note, remember not to place the lights too close to the seedlings as it can burn them. Likewise, too far away and the plants won’t be getting as much light as possible. Both of these plant lights are full-spectrum to be easy on your eyes, as well as have adjustable heights to help as your plants grow taller.

Grow Seeds Inside

Tip #8: Don’t under- or over-water…

Having the right amount of water is key to seedling survival. Making sure that you have proper drainage and a good soil are all important for watering success as well. But basically, you want the top of the soil to stay moist without the bottom of the pot soaking in water. As mentioned above, this can cause a lot of problems… mainly an increase in fungal problems, which is often a seedling killer. Also, you don’t want to dry those little guys out. Seeds and seedlings are very sensitive and forgetting to water them can also mean life or death. Also, when watering, make sure that you give them a gentle spray, so as to avoid washing away any little seeds or seedlings.  You don’t want a flash flood of water! Keep it to a nice little frequent sprinkle and those seeds will love it!

Tip #9: Sow at proper spacing and depth…

This may also sound pretty straightforward. However, you’d be surprised at how many seeds have a hard time because of improper seed depth and spacing. Basically, the bigger the seed, the more soil goes on top. The smaller seeds can sometimes be even just sprinkled on top of the soil and lightly pressed down to ensure good soil contact. As for spacing, follow the recommended spacing, but if the seeds are a medium to a smaller size, put a couple of seeds in each hole just to ensure that you will have at least one sprout. Then thin seedlings out to the proper spacing once they’ve sprouted.

Grow Seeds Inside

Tip #10: Transplant at the right time…

Even I’ve transplanted my seedlings too early, just to watch them die in the new soil. Basically, wait until they have two sets of true leaves to transplant into slightly larger pots, and then into the garden (weather and seasonal conditions permitting). So what exactly is two sets of true leaves? The first set of leaves are called the cotyledon leaves. They don’t count. The next set of leaves look different. They look more like whatever plant you’ve planted. This is the first set of true leaves. Then wait for a second set to grow. Once there are two sets of leaves (may be two leaves, may be four or more, depending on the type of plant) then these little guys are ready to be moved into a more permanent home.

I hope these tips have helped! Let me know if there are any other tips or tricks that you’ve found to be useful in the comments below! Then, for even easier growing, check out these 5 Effortless Indoor Herb Garden Kits!

And, for more information on starting seeds for an indoor herb garden, check out the Tips from Experts on Using Herbs and Spices at Home!

Happy digging!

Click here to subscribe

Iron Deficiency: Symptoms and Solutions

This past month I visited my parents’ house and noticed that their young maple tree looks bad… really bad… So here’s what’s up. There are iron deficient leaves! (Basically the plant is showing signs of iron deficiency). The leaves are yellow on the outside with green on the inside, and a bunch at the top and from the ends of the branches are dead and falling off. It looks like the tree is dying! So, what exactly is going on, and how do you fix it???? Here’s what you need to know…

Click here to subscribe

Iron Deficiency

Here are the common symptoms of iron deficiency to know if your plant has it or not:

1. The leaves are bright yellow on the outsides, but green on the leaf margins (it looks like the picture above…)

2. The whole tree is affected, not just parts of it. (If only sections of the tree are affected, then the problem is most likely root-related).

3. The leaves have the worst discoloration on the new leaves, while the older leaves are looking somewhat better off. This means that the leaves on the ends of the branches are the worst, not the other way around.

These are the sure signs that your tree (or plant) is iron deficient.

So what do you do? 

Well, what I did is I went down to Home Depot (love that place), and bought some iron fertilizer (Ironite was my choice). Now I’ve been spreading it at a couple of lbs per square feet, evenly below the drip line (as far as the branches spread out). Then I’ve been giving it a nice soak through with some water to get that iron down into the roots. And that just leaves time for the tree to take it all in and hopefully recover enough for next season.

Do you have this problem? Or is your plant having a different issue? Comment below and I’ll see what I can do for you! Then, for more ideas for your yard, check out this post Landscaping 101: Designing your Yard in 10 Basic Steps!

Happy Digging!

Click here to subscribe

Grow Perfect Roses from Cuttings

So here’s how this whole grow roses from cuttings thing came about…

My mom was talking the other day about a rose bush that her dad had planted in one of the cousin’s yards. See, he had passed away about 20 years prior and she always remembered this rose bush he had planted. She was hoping that they would take good care of it in order to make sure that it stayed alive. Every year or so she would visit the house and would always cross her fingers, hoping the bush was still healthy. She wanted to be able to remember her dad through this rose bush.

But I came up with the idea, “Well, why don’t you get some cuttings and grow the rose bush yourself?”

Good idea? Totally. Preserving family memories? Big time. Ever wonder how you can preserve your very own favorite rose? Here’s a great method that I used to grow my grandpa’s roses from cuttings. And believe me, it works!

Click here to subscribe

What you need:

  • 2 large plastic containers (preferably a large, clear container for the top, I used a 2 liter soda bottle)
  • Potting Soil
  • Rooting Hormone (you can find it at Walmart, Home Depot, or Lowe’s)
  • Razor Blade
  • Hand Pruners
  • Rose Cuttings (see next section for instructions!)

Instructions:

The rose cuttings should be 6-8″ long, trying to take a cutting from a stem that has a wilted rose on it already (this makes sure that the stem is in the growth mode and not the blooming mode). Try to make a cut close to the original stalk to get some of the growth collar on it. This is the brown ring around where the stem attaches to the original stalk. Your cuttings should look like this:

If transporting the cuttings, make sure that the cut ends do not dry out. This can be done by wrapping them in moist paper towels and then sealing the ends in a large plastic bag. I’ve also just put the longer cuttings in a vase full of water and they seemed to do just fine (though it’s harder to keep yourself dry on bumpy rides home!)

Planting your cuttings:

Now that you’ve got yourself a cutting (or two or three), take your plastic containers and cut off the top of the larger one, and the bottom of the smaller one. Then, cut drainage holes in the bottom of the plastic container. I usually just do a simple X in a couple of spots. Then fill the larger container with soil, leaving space in the middle to insert your cutting into. Next, take your cutting, and clip off the top that contains the wilted rose. Also cut off several of the leaves, leaving only two sets of mature leaves. Then, with the razor blade, carefully cut strips into the bottom of the cutting. These strips should be about 1/2″ long and should only cut through the soft, green layer of the stem. Be careful to not cut too deeply at this part.

Once it’s cut, dip the end of the cutting in water (making sure to cover the whole length of the slit area), and then dip it into rooting hormone. Lightly shake off any extra powder. Then put it into your already prepped container. Make sure that you press the soil around the end of the cutting instead of pushing the end down into the soil. This will help keep the rooting hormone on the cutting and not just loose in your soil. Press the soil down firmly to hold cutting in place and to ensure good contact. Then place second plastic container over the entire cutting.

Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Transplant once there are two sets of new leaves and when outside conditions are fair. Enjoy your new roses! And, if you want to learn another way to grow roses, check out my post How to Grow Roses from Cut Flowers!

Happy Digging!

*This photo is taken several weeks later. The new leaves show that this little guy is ready to be planted!*

Click here to subscribe

How to Get Rid of Brown Soft Scale

Today we are going to talk about how to get rid of brown soft scale. While there are many different types of scale insects, this one is arguably the most common. It can be found on several different species of plants and is a common pest in greenhouses and nurseries. It can also affect many different types of citrus and ornamental plants, which is another reason why brown soft scale can be such a common pest.

      Note: We are going to be talking about getting rid of brown soft scale in a houseplant situation. Landscape plants that are infected with brown soft scale will benefit most from either a good hosing down with an insecticide, introducing natural enemies (such as ladybugs or lacewings), or by using a systemic that is properly applied. Caution when using a systemic however… be sure that you follow the labels. And only use on edible plants according to the recommended guidelines. 

Click here to subscribe

So… What do these little pests look like? …

Brown Soft Scale

This is a picture of my dwarf citrus tree (a tangerine hybrid). See all the brown spots? Those are the adult female scales. They like to hide along the underside and ridges of the plant, as well as along the stem. There are also very small spots all over the leaves. These are the young scale insects and they can travel around on the plant and like the adults, feed off of it like an aphid would. This causes the leaves to exude a sticky substance.

So, if you see spots and the leaves get sticky… you’ve got brown soft scale…

Another sign of brown soft scale is if you see ants invading your plants. The ants are attracted to the sticky sap. They can’t get this sap themselves, but insects like aphids or scale insects can get to it. So if you see ants crawling through your plant, you most likely have aphids or scale insects.

My poor little citrus tree…

 I first noticed a few small spots when I brought this little guy home from the nursery. I should have taken care of it then and there, but life got in the way. Next thing I knew, the one or two turned into several dozen!

Now I definitely had a brown soft scale problem, but I didn’t know how to get rid of them.

So I did some research and ended up trying a couple of different things that were recommended online. Here’s a list of what worked, and what didn’t work.

First Method: Hand picking…

Unless you have an incredible eye and/or a very small plant, I would not suggest this method. While it can be used along with other methods, it is just too easy to miss one of those females (which can produce up to 250 eggs each!). This can be a good control when you’ve got a spare minute, but it is extremely difficult to completely eliminate these guys with just handpicking…

Second Method: Insecticide…

Brown Soft Scale

I bought a generic insecticide from Walmart for $5. Not too bad. I sprayed it at night when it would have a chance to dry before my toddler and my dog got up in the morning. This is the one that I used, but there were several different ones that I could have used that all listed scale as one of the targeted insects. (I chose the added fungicide so that it could potentially be used for any fungal problems that may arise in the future).

I found that first off, I had to spray it like crazy! You need to make sure that the plants get full coverage to kill any little guys in any little crevices. Overall, it helped to control the amount of scales, and might have even cut back on the number of the scale insects. However, they eventually made a comeback. This led me to continue to repeat applications, but then I was worried about spraying so much insecticide in the house.

If it were a smaller plant this might have worked as I would have been able to take it outside and sprayed it like crazy (where I wouldn’t be concerned with furniture and inhalation issues). But with it being a bit larger I couldn’t easily bring it outdoors… plus in the freezing Idaho temperatures my plant wouldn’t have enjoyed it very much 🙁

So this made the insecticide a bit unreasonable for me. But I have to admit… it did get rid of some of the scale. So if you have a smaller plant or you’re able to bring it outdoors into a well-ventilated area, then I would definitely suggest this option.

Some options other than Fungicide 3 are insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, or a triple-action disease, fungus, and insect control. These can be picked up at your local Lowe’s or Home Depot.

Third Method: Hand cleaning…

Brown Soft Scale

This is different from the first method because I used an alcohol wipe to individually wipe each of the leaves and stems of the entire plant. This is also very hard to eliminate completely, but with the alcohol on every leaf, I found that it killed 95% of the scales. I only had to follow up one more time to clean it up for good.

I bought this isopropyl alcohol from the Dollar Tree. Not bad for $1! I applied it using cotton swabs and gently rubbed away all insects from the top and underside of each leaf. I made sure that I applied a generous amount and rubbed it all over the stems as well. This took a little bit of time, but was well worth all the time and energy.

Just make sure that you rinse it well after using a soap- or an alcohol-based liquid on the leaves. A good way to do this is to spray it thoroughly with a spray bottle filled with water. You can also rinse it off in the shower. Just be sure to wrap the pot in a plastic bag or a trash bag to keep the soil from getting too moist. If it gets too much water (especially in the winter), this could kill your plants faster than the scale insects!!!

In all, you will have to decide which method will work best for you depending on your situation and the size and number of leaves on your houseplant. And remember to always test any chemicals on a few leaves and wait for several days to make sure there is no damage. Let me know if there are any other methods you’ve tried that you approve of!

Happy digging!

Click here to subscribe