Indoor Plants

The Complete Beginner’s Guide to Care for an Umbrella Plant

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Title: The Complete Beginner's Guide to Umbrella Plants (Schefflera) - Read Now with decorative image of a variegated schefflera

Umbrella plants, or Schefflera actinophylla, is a beautiful branching indoor plant that has become very popular over the years. This is because of its ability to survive in lower light levels and its low maintenance. But surviving is different from thriving. Here are my instructions for how to care for an umbrella plant indoors so it can not only survive, but also give you lots of new growth!

Table of Contents
  1. Umbrella Tree Light Requirements
  2. Umbrella Tree Water Requirements
  3. Umbrella Tree Fertilizer Requirements 
  4. Umbrella Plants and Temperature
  5. Humidity Levels
  6. Common Umbrella Plant Issues and How to Solve Them
    1. Yellow Leaves 
    2. Brown Leaves
    3. Pests 
    4. Little to No New Growth
  7. Conclusion
  8. Umbrella Plant Care FAQs
    1. How much light does an umbrella plant need?
    2. How often should I water my umbrella plant?
    3. What type of soil is best for the umbrella plant?
    4. Why are the leaves of my umbrella plant turning yellow?

*Note: This post may contain affiliate links, which if purchased helps to support this website at no extra charge to you. This helps me to keep providing awesome information to y’all!*

The umbrella plant (or dwarf schefflera) is native to Taiwan and South China. It’s renowned for its lustrous, umbrella-like leaves which give it its common name, as well as the nickname, the parasol plant! This evergreen tree is naturally an understory tree, which means that even in its tropical, native environment, it doesn’t receive direct, full sun. Keep this in mind while caring for your schefflera plants as it will help you to keep your care routine similar to its native habitat.

Umbrella Tree Light Requirements

These plants prefer bright, indirect light for strong, healthy growth. Exposure to direct sunlight can scorch the leaves, leading to a dull and unhealthy look. However, if the plant doesn’t get enough light, it may become leggy. A north or east-facing window is often a good location. 

If you need something for your dark corner, then my recommendation is to allow it to have several weeks of bright, indirect light and then move it to your dark location for a few weeks. This rotation shouldn’t cause too much stretching of new growth. Or you can check out my video on the Best Houseplants for Low Light!

And keep in mind that if you are having too much stretching, the only way to fix it is to trim it down and let it grow new branches in better lighting.

*Note that the sap of this plant contains calcium oxalate crystals, which can cause an irritation for some people. Be sure to use gloves while pruning or propagating this plant and wash your hands thoroughly after contact*

And again, please keep your schefflera out of hot, direct sunlight. This can cause large, faded brown areas on your leaves which will never be able to revert back to green. If in doubt, leggy is always better than burnt!

Umbrella Tree Water Requirements

Dwarf umbrella plants prefer to be lightly moist. So it is important to avoid both severe water-logging and letting the soil dry out completely. 

The best approach for watering your umbrella plant is to water thoroughly, and then allow the top inch of soil to dry out before the next watering. A good rule of thumb is to water them once every week during the growing season and reduce watering frequency to every two weeks during winter. Overwatering can lead to root rot which is a common issue among umbrella plants.

In low light, I usually adjust my dwarf umbrella tree watering by only slightly decreasing my frequency of watering and focusing more on decreasing the amount of water I add each time. Watch out for green or yellow leaves dropping. This is a sign of having too much water in your soil.  If this is happening to your umbrella plant, then immediately repot your plant into fresh, dry soil and trim off any black or mushy roots!

Another key to ensuring that your indoor umbrella plant has a balanced amount of watering is to make sure that it has drainage holes in the bottom of its pot. This allows any excess moisture to drain out the bottom of the pot instead of pooling in the bottom of the soil. Excess moisture at the bottom of your pot can cause root rot.

Umbrella Tree Fertilizer Requirements 

Feeding an umbrella plant is not a complex process since they are not heavy feeders and don’t require much fertilizer to maintain their growth. Use a general-purpose houseplant fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength. Feed your umbrella plant once every couple of weeks during the growing season, typically from spring to early fall. During the quieter winter months, feeding can be reduced to once a month, or even stopped completely if your plant is not actively growing.

Be careful to not add too much fertilizer to any new plants that you have propagated. Young roots and plants are more susceptible to fertilizer burn. Consider using a fertilizer that is more tailored to young plants, such as SuperThrive, or a slow-release fertilizer.

Umbrella Plants and Temperature

Umbrella plants prefer temperatures between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Any drastic or sudden changes in temperature can lead to wilted leaves. Maintain a consistent temperature and keep the plant away from drafty windows or doors. It does not like cold drafts so keep it away from air conditioner vents in the summer and drafty doors in the winter.

Humidity Levels

As tropical plants, umbrella plants prefer high humidity levels. Dry air, common in heated interiors during winter, can cause the leaves to drop. To increase humidity, you can place it in a well-lit bathroom or kitchen, use a humidifier, or place the plant on a tray filled with pebbles and water.

If you can’t raise the humidity levels, at least try to keep it way from any heating or cooling vents as these can drastically decrease the humidity, specifically in the winter while the heater is running.

Common Umbrella Plant Issues and How to Solve Them

Despite your best attempts, it’s possible that your umbrella plant may encounter some issues. Don’t worry, these are generally easily rectified with a bit of knowledge and a quick response.

Yellow Leaves 

One common problem with umbrella plants is yellowing leaves. This is often a sign of overwatering. If you notice yellow leaves, the best action would be to check the soil. If you find moist soil, then reduce your watering. And as I mentioned above, if your leaf drop is excessive and your soil is still moist, then immediately repot your plant into fresh, dry soil. 

Brown Leaves

Brown, crispy leaf tips on your umbrella plant could indicate low humidity or underwatering. In these cases, increase the frequency of your watering and consider using a moisture tray or a humidifier to increase humidity.

Light brown splotches, however, could be a sign of too much hot, bright light. I would make sure that your dwarf schefflera is not getting too much hot sunlight and consider moving it if it is showing signs of leaf scorch. 

Pests 

Pest infestations can be another problem, particularly with scale insects, spider mites, or mealybugs. These pests can be tackled by wiping the leaves with a mild solution of soapy water or by using a specific houseplant insecticide. Insecticidal soap is a particular favorite of mine for a foliar spray, or this Bonide systemic insecticide works great for most indoor plants! 

For more information on how to get rid of specific pests, check out my Indoor Plant Pest Guide!

Little to No New Growth

Slow growth or no growth, particularly during the growing season from spring through the fall, can indicate either that the plant isn’t getting enough light or that it needs some fertilizer. Simply moving your umbrella plant to a brighter location and ensuring it’s properly fed can help resolve this issue. 

If you still aren’t seeing any new growth, especially on a mature plant, consider repotting it to stimulate its root system. Or, if your plant is receiving little light, consider moving it to a location where it will get bright, indirect light during the day. This can also stimulate the plant to put out a flush of new growth!

Conclusion

Here a quick recap of the umbrella plant…

  • Schefflera arboricola plants: A popular houseplant known for its unique umbrella shaped stem and leaves. It has grown in popularity due to its easy-care nature.
  • Required Environment: The plant thrives best in warm indoor temperatures, high humidity levels, and bright, but indirect light.
  • Feeding & Watering: These plants require a balanced approach to feeding and watering, avoiding both under-watering and over-watering as well as a balanced fertilizer. 
  • Common Issues: By recognizing the signs of common umbrella plant issues such as yellowing leaves and watching for common plant pets Seychelles as Scaife insects and spider mites, we can take steps to mitigate these problems effectively.

With this knowledge at your fingertips, caring for an umbrella plant indoors should be a breeze. Remember, it’s not just about keeping your plant alive but creating a nurturing environment where it can thrive. So, bring home an umbrella plant and give these tips a try. 

Happy Digging!

Umbrella Plant Care FAQs

How much light does an umbrella plant need?

Umbrella plants thrive in bright, indirect light. They can tolerate some direct sunlight but overexposure can burn the leaves. In low light conditions, their growth may slow and the leaves may lose their vibrant color. Make sure to give your umbrella plants the right conditions to ensure optimal growth!

How often should I water my umbrella plant?

Watering frequency for umbrella plants can depend on the environment, but generally, watering once a week is sufficient. It’s best to keep the soil slightly moist but not soaked; allowing the top inch of soil to dry out before the next watering can help prevent overwatering. Consider adding a liquid fertilizer at half strength to your water during the summer months for an explosion of new growth!

What type of soil is best for the umbrella plant?

Umbrella plants prefer well-draining soil, which prevents excess water from sitting around the roots and causing rot. A commercial potting mix for houseplants or a blend of equal parts peat moss, coarse sand, and perlite should work well to keep your soil draining well.

Why are the leaves of my umbrella plant turning yellow?

Yellowing leaves can be a common issue with umbrella plants and can be due to several reasons, including overwatering, insufficient light, or nutrient deficiency. The first thing to do is to check your soil. If your soil is wet, then you may need to repot your plant into fresh, dry soil. If your soil is not wet, then further troubleshooting is required to know why your plant’s leaves are turning yellow.

25 Best Low Light Indoor Succulents for Busy Plant Parents

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Are you a plant parent with a busy schedule? Do you want to add some greenery to your low light space but don’t have the time to dedicate to high maintenance plants? Look no further. In this article, we’ve compiled a list of the 25 best low light succulents that are perfect for busy people like you. These succulent plants are not only easy to care for, but they also share a lot of the same benefits of other tropical houseplants, such as improving air quality and reducing stress levels. From snake plants to haworthias, this list is compiled to not only bring you some great options to choose from, but to also show you some unique varieties that will make your space stand out! So sit back, relax, and discover which low light succulent is perfect for your space and your lifestyle!

1. Snake Plant (Sansevieria trifasciata)

One of the most popular low light succulents for busy plant parents is the snake plant (aka the mother-in-law’s tongue). This high level of popularity is mainly due to the fact that this plant is incredibly resilient and adaptable, making it perfect for those who tend to forget to water. Its long, upright leaves come in a variety of shades and patterns, from dark green to variegated yellow and green, adding a touch of sophistication to any space. Most people use this plant as a type of living sculpture within their spaces due to its tall, vertical shape as well as because it can tolerate very low light levels (just be sure to add lots of well-draining soil and let it dry out a bit in between watering!)

Aside from its attractive appearance, the snake plant is also known for its air-purifying capabilities. It can remove toxins such as benzene, formaldehyde, and trichloroethylene from the air, making it a great addition to any home or office. Snake plant is also one of our unique indoor plants due to its ability to release oxygen at night, making it ideal for the bedroom. It has been shown to improve sleep quality and reduce stress levels, making it a perfect companion for busy, overworked individuals, or anyone else looking to de-stress their lives!

If you’re looking for a low maintenance, yet visually stunning plant, look no further than the snake plant. Its durability, air-purifying properties, and therapeutic benefits make it a top choice for any plant parent. Then, for care information about this plant, check out my post on Snake Plant Care!

Get one here!

2. Baby Jade

Another great succulent option for busy plant parents is the Baby Jade. This small succulent, also known as the Crassula ovata ‘Baby Jade’, is easy to care for and can thrive in low light conditions. It is characterized by its small, round leaves that resemble the original jade plant. The main difference is the size of the plant. Like the Jade plant, the Baby Jade can be shaped into a bonsai tree, but its overall size will be much more compact and smaller than the regular Jade. This can be perfect if you’re working with small spaces, or you need something for your office.

Similar to the snake plant, Baby Jade also has air-purifying properties that can promote a healthier environment, as well as doesn’t need a lot of water. This makes it a perfect choice for those who want to enjoy the benefits of having a plant in their space, without having to worry about keeping to a demanding watering schedule.

Get one here!

3. Haworthia cooperi var. Obtusa

If you’re interested in adding more variety to your succulent collection, the Haworthia Windows ‘Obtusa’ is another great option to consider. This unique succulent has translucent window-like areas on its leaves that allow sunlight to enter and reach its inner cells. It is different from other haworthia windows varieties as the leaf tips are more rounded and less angular. Then, when purposefully stressed (with too much light, or low water), then the leaves will turn a beautiful reddish color.

The Haworthia cooperi can also do well in a low light setting becuase its translucent window-like areas on its leaves allow sunlight to enter and reach its inner cells, making it more efficient at capturing light waves. This feature makes it a great option for those who don’t have a lot of natural light in their homes.

So, if you’re looking to add more variety to your succulent collection, Haworthia Windows var. Obtusa is definitely worth considering!

Get one here!

4. Panda Plant Kalanchoe

Another succulent to consider for a low-light house plant is the Panda Plant Kalanchoe, which has thick and fuzzy leaves that is said to resemble the coat of a panda. This Panda Plant, also known as Kalanchoe tomentosa, is native to Madagascar and is perfect for busy plant parents who want to add a touch of whimsy to their collection without high maintenance needs. 

Similar to other succulents, the Panda Plant Kalanchoe does not require a lot of watering, and it thrives in either in bright, indirect light or low light environments. The panda plant can actually get leaf burn if it is in too much hot, direct sunlight. So if you’re looking to add some soft texture to your space, the Panda Plant is definitely worth considering.

Get one here!

5. Purple Heart Tradescantia

Next, let’s take a look at another low light succulent, the Purple Heart Tradescantia.

Purple Heart Tradescantia is a low light succulent that many plant parents adore. Its stunning purple leaves add a pop of color to any indoor space and in time, its long, trailing vines will create an eye-catching effect, especially when planted with other vertical, green plants such as snake plants. This succulent also prefers to be left alone and it can do well in low to bright light conditions.

Just make sure that you do leave it alone. I’ve found that my tradescantia don’t like to be touched (or played with by my cat!) and being handled too much can cause the leaves to turn brown. So if you’re wanting these gorgeous purple leaves, make sure to give it a well-draining soil and pot, let it dry between watering, and then try not to touch it!

This plant also does extremely well with a grow light. So if you have no-light locations, you can have your tradescantia with a little grow light (like this one!) and it will be perfectly happy for you!

Get one here!

6. Ogre Ears aka Gollum Crassula

Moving on to another low light succulent, let’s take a look at Ogre Ears. This unique succulent has thick, fleshy leaves that are shaped like, as you can probably guess from its common name… ogre ears! Its scientific name is Crassula ovata ‘Gollum Jade’, and it doesn’t dissapoint!

Like many succulents, Ogre Ears is low maintenance and prefers well-draining soil and infrequent watering. This plant can thrive in a variety of light conditions, from bright, indirect light down to low light conditions. Ogre Ears is an excellent choice for those looking to add some quirky character to their succulent garden. Its interesting shape and texture make it a standout among other succulents. Plus, it’s a great conversation starter with guests! Oh, and my kids just absolutely love them too! There’s just something about Ogre Ears that always makes me smile 🙂

Get one here!

7. Ponytail Palm

Next up, the Ponytail Palm, (another one of our indoor succulents for low light) is a visually stunning indoor plant that looks fabulous as a specimen plant. The Beaucarnea recurvata, or Ponytail Palm, has leaves that grow in a long, curly pattern that resembles a ponytail, hence the name. The leaves are thick and leathery, which helps the plant retain moisture in dry conditions that have low humidity. The trunk of the Ponytail Palm is also quite unique, with a bulbous base that can store water to help the plant survive periods of drought. This also helps it to require very little attention as it thrives with thorough, infrequent watering.

The only thing that I can add about this beautiful, fun plant, is that you should not get a ponytail palm if you have cats in your home. In my experience, cats LOVE to chew on this plant. This transforms it from a gorgeous curly head of leaves to a rather unsightly firecracker top. I actually had to re-home mine because of my cats (after several failed attempts at cat deterrents). But don’t worry, my aunt is loving her new ponytail palm tree, and she’s gotten it looking gorgeous again! Haha!

Get one here!

8. Window Haworthia

Like the Ponytail Palm, the Window Haworthia is a beautiful succulent that is also a relatively low maintenance plant. It can survive in a variety of soil conditions and requires infrequent watering. The Windows Haworthia species is also a type of haworthia that has translucent leaves. These “windows” on the leaves can capture more light than their solid-leaf haworthia siblings. This makes it the perfect choice for a location that has less light, and it can sometimes even  prefer a bit of shade over a sunny spot. For more care information, check out my post, Haworthia plant care!

Get one here!

9. ZZ Plant

The ZZ plant is a versatile succulent that is perfect for busy plant parents. Not only can it tolerate low light conditions, but it’s also drought-tolerant and can go weeks without being watered, trust me. I seriously neglect mine. (Sorry little ZeeZee!) However, this just proves that it is a great choice for those who may forget to water their plants regularly, or those who have a busy schedule.

The reason the ZZ plant, or Zamioculcas zamiifolia, can do so well with little water is because of its root system that contains little bulbs that store water. So they can do well with thorough watering to replenish the bulbs’ water, then periods of drought.

This, plus the fact that ZZ plants are notoriously easy to propagate from leaf and stem cuttings, and you definitely have a winner on your hands!

Get one here!

10. Burro’s Tail

The Burro’s Tail succulent, also called a donkey’s tail, is a unique and beautiful plant that is perfect for busy plant parents. With its cascading stems that can grow up to three feet long, the Burro’s Tail is a favorite among succulent enthusiasts. This hardy little plant is incredibly low maintenance, requiring only occasional watering and minimal attention.

One thing to keep in mind with the Burro’s Tail is that it prefers bright indirect light to keep the short, stubby leaves. While it can handle some low light conditions, it won’t thrive in complete darkness and in a lower light level, it will tend to have some stretching between the leaf joints.

Another thing to note is that the leaves are delicate and can easily fall off if the plant is bumped or moved too much. This means that it needs to go in a place that has little traffic where it could be bumped or brushed.

So, even though this indoor succulent can be a bit of a diva, it’s definitely a succulent that looks incredible when it gets what it wants… (Is anyone else thinking of the song Prima Donna here?! :D)

Get one here!

11. Zebra Plant

The Zebra Plant, also known as Haworthia fasciata, is a charming succulent that is easy to care for and its striped leaves are absolutely stunning! Native to South Africa, the Zebra Plant prefers bright, indirect light but can also tolerate low light conditions. The only comment I can make here is that when given bright light, such as in a south-facing window, it will stay short and compact and will require more watering. But in low-light environments, slow down on the water, and also expect stretching. The leaves will start getting taller with fewer stripes, but even with the stretching, your zebra cactus will still look great.

For more information on how to care for this plant, check out my post on Zebra Plant Care.

Get one here!

12. Jade Plant

The Jade Plant, also known as the Crassula Ovata, is a popular choice among succulent enthusiasts. With its small, shiny, round leaves, it adds a touch of elegance to any space. But what makes it truly remarkable is its resilience.

Like most other succulents, the Jade plant can do well with infrequent watering since it stores water in both its stem and leaves. Overwatering can lead to root rot, so it’s essential to let the soil dry out completely between watering sessions, especially when it is in lower light conditions. But with proper care, the Jade Plant can grow up to six feet tall and live for decades. This makes it one of the best succulents to bring home!

Get one here!

13. Christmas Cactus & Thanksgiving Cactus

Speaking of hardy succulents, the Christmas Cactus and Thanksgiving Cactus are must-haves for any busy plant parent. These flowering plants are perfect for those who want to add some color to their low-light space. While both plants belong to the same genus, they differ in their blooming season. The Christmas Cactus blooms in December, while the Thanksgiving Cactus blooms in November, although forced blooming can cause your cactus to have flowers at any time of the year. This is why some people simply refer to both of these species as holiday cacti.

These cacti do like a bit more moisture than other succulents, since they are originally from tropical regions that have a lot of humidity. This moisture is especially vital during blooming time, since the blooms can drop if the plant gets too dry. The best method here is to water them thoroughly and let the soil drain before putting them back in their saucer. For more information on caring for your cactus, check out my post on Christmas Cactus Plant Care, or if you’re having issues with your holiday cactus, check out my post on troubleshooting problems with Christmas Cactus.

Get one here!

14. String of Pearls

The String of Pearls succulent is a unique and eye-catching plant that is perfect for those who love to add a touch of whimsy to their indoor garden. This low-light succulent is known for its slender, trailing stems that are adorned with small, round leaves that resemble pearls. This makes it perfect for hanging planters, with trailing stems that can grow up to three feet long.

Like many succulents, String of Pearls is relatively low-maintenance and prefers indirect light and well-draining soil. However, it does require a little more attention when it comes to watering. These cacti like to be kept moist, but not too wet. Be sure to water them thoroughly and let the soil drain before putting them back in their saucer. If you are worried about keeping the moisture consistent, then I would recommend buying a soil moisture meter. This will fix ALL of your watering issues!

Get one here!

15. Raven ZZ Plant

Raven ZZ Plant is an exceptional choice if you are looking for a houseplant that will thrive in low light conditions. Its dark purple-green leaves with waxy texture and smooth surface make it an intriguing addition to any corner of your home. This succulent is a natural air purifier, removing toxins from the air and creating a healthier environment. 

Like the original green ZZ plant, the Raven ZZ Plant is also easy to care for and can survive with minimal watering. In low light it can grow pretty slowly, making it very low-maintenance. But when there is new growth, it comes as a beautiful bright green that contrasts starkly against the dark green mature leaves.

If you are a busy plant parent who struggles to find time for plant care, Raven ZZ Plant is the perfect choice for you. Its resilience and low maintenance needs make it a hassle-free addition to your indoor plant collection. 

Get one here!

16. Moonshine Snake Plant

Next on our list is the Moonshine Snake Plant, a perfect choice for busy plant parents due to its resilience and unique features. This low-light succulent has striking silver-green leaves that have a silvery stripe down the center. The plant’s thin, upright leaves are slightly stiff, making it almost impossible to damage or break them. A Moonshine snake plant can grow up to three feet tall, and it doesn’t require much watering, making it perfect for people who are always on the go.

Apart from being easy to take care of, Moonshine snake plants also provide several benefits. They are known for their ability to purify the air, removing toxins such as formaldehyde, benzene, and xylene. Its air-purifying qualities make it an ideal choice for bedrooms and offices.

Get one here!

17. Hoya spp.

Hoya, also known as the wax plant, is a popular choice among plant parents because of its unique foliage and minimal care requirements. Its waxy leaves come in a variety of colors and shapes, from heart-shaped to circular, and can add visual interest to any room. 

With enough light, Hoya can produce small, fragrant flowers that bloom intermittently throughout the year. Its flowers are star-shaped and come in shades of pink, white, and yellow. 

Get one here!

18. Pincushion Cactus

Pincushion Cactus, also known as Mammillaria, is a cactus that is perfect for busy plant parents. It requires minimal care and adds an unusual element to any collection. Pincushion Cactus prefers soil that drains well and should only be watered occasionally. Its unique appearance is due to the small white or yellow flowers that bloom from its spiky stems. 

This small cactus also does well in low-light conditions but it won’t flower as often unless given more light. This doesn’t stop it though from being a cute little cactus to put on your shelf!

Get one here!

19. Haworthia ‘White Ghost’

Haworthia ‘White Ghost’ is a strikingly beautiful low-light succulent that is known for its ghostly appearance. This unique plant has fleshy, translucent leaves with white markings, making it look almost ethereal. It can be grown both indoors or outdoors, but it prefers bright indirect sunlight or low- to medium-light conditions. Like most succulents, Haworthia ‘White Ghost’ does not require frequent watering, and it needs well-draining soil, especially when it is in low light. 

If you’re looking for a low-maintenance, visually stunning addition to your plant collection, Haworthia ‘White Ghost’ is definitely worth considering.

Get one here!

20. Kalanchoe spp.

Kalanchoe is a beautiful and versatile low-light succulent that comes in a variety of colors and shapes. This plant produces clusters of small, vibrant flowers that add a pop of color to any indoor or outdoor space. These flowers can range from whites to yellows, pinks, and even orange. It prefers bright, indirect light but can tolerate lower light conditions as well.

One of the great things about Kalanchoe is how easy it is to care for. It only needs to be watered once a week, and its soil should be well-draining to prevent overwatering. This succulent does well in a range of temperatures and can even thrive in drought-like conditions.

If you’re looking for a low-light succulent with colorful blooms and minimal maintenance, Kalanchoe is a great choice.

Get one here!

21. Aloe Vera

Aloe Vera is a popular succulent known for its medicinal properties. It’s easy to care for, making it an excellent choice for busy plant parents. Most people believe that aloe vera needs a lot of bright, full sun, but it actually does better in partial shade. If given too much light (especially when it is in a pot and doesn’t have the cooling effect of being planted in the ground), the leaves can turn a blue-ish color. When this happens, you know that your plant is stressed and it is best if you move it into a lower-light spot before the leaf tips turn brown. Don’t confuse this with a dark green color, though, which is a sign of overwatering!

In addition to its aesthetic appeal, the aloe vera plant has been used for centuries for its healing properties. The gel inside its leaves can be applied topically to soothe burns, reduce inflammation, and promote healing. It’s also known to purify the air of harmful pollutants, making it a great addition to any indoor space.

If you’re looking for a low-light succulent that’s not only beautiful but also has proven health benefits, Aloe Vera is an excellent choice.

Get one here!

22. String of Hearts

Another stunning low-light succulent option is the String of Hearts. This type of Hoya is a delicate and beautiful plant that features cascading vines of small heart-shaped leaves, creating a charming and whimsical look. It’s a great choice for hanging baskets or trailing over bookshelves or windowsills.

But the String of Hearts isn’t just pretty to look at – it also has air-purifying properties that make it a healthy addition to any space. Plus, it’s a low-maintenance plant that’s easy to care for, making it perfect for busy plant parents.

If you’re a fan of unique and eye-catching succulents, the String of Hearts is definitely worth considering. Just make sure that when you purchase a String of Hearts, you don’t start with a single heart leaf, since the plant needs a section of the stem in order to propagate and grow further. So make sure you get more than just a single leaf!

Get one here!

23. Crown of Thorns

The Crown of Thorns succulent is a unique and beautiful addition to any collection. With its thick stem and small green leaves, this plant is a showstopper. But what sets it apart from others is its small, bright flowers that bloom in clusters. 

Be aware, though that this plant does have sharp thorns so it could be dangerous being placed in high-traffic areas or around small children. However, this plant could be good if you have pets that generally mess with your plants, since they will leave this tough little guy alone.

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24. Baby Toes Fenestraria

The Baby Toes Fenestraria is a perfect choice for those who want a unique and fascinating plant that can thrive in low light conditions. Its plump and window-like leaves create a striking visual appeal that will capture anyone’s attention. To me, it reminds me of a mix between the windows haworthia and the ogre ears!

So if you’re looking for something that is extremely unique, then get yourself a Baby Toes!

Get one here!

25. Haworthia cooperi var. ‘retusa’

If you’re already a fan of succulents and are looking for a low light option, the Haworthia cooperi var. ‘retusa’ is an excellent choice to consider. This unique plant boasts a rosette of plump green leaves that have transparent tips, providing an eye-catching and mesmerizing appearance. 

The Haworthia cooperi var. ‘retusa’ is easy to care for, making it an excellent option for busy plant parents who still want to add some personality to their living space. This succulent actually prefers medium to low light conditions, making it an ideal choice for those who don’t have access to bright, direct sunlight.

Adding the Haworthia cooperi var. ‘retusa’ to your plant collection allows you to enjoy the unique beauty of this plant and adds diversity to your space. Its distinct aesthetic adds an element of fascination that will surely capture the attention of anyone who enters your home.

Get one here!

In short, low-light succulents are the perfect addition to any busy plant parent’s home. With a variety of options, from the snake plant, to the aloe plant, to the haworthia cooperi var. ‘retusa’, there is a plant for every taste and style. Not only do these plants add a touch of green to your space, but they also have numerous benefits for your health and well-being. So why not add some low light succulents to your home and enjoy the benefits for years to come?!

If you need any care information, check out my post on Succulent Care!

Split Leaf Philodendron vs Monstera: The 6 Key Differences

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Split leaf philodendrons and Monsteras are both very striking tropical plants that are part of the araceae family. They can look similar to each other, especially while young, but they are in fact two very different plants! It is vital that you know which plant you have. This will help you know the exact care routine that you should follow. So listed below are the 5 key differences you can look for to properly identify your houseplant!

Even more confusing, the Monstera, known as the swiss cheese plant, is also sometimes called the split-leaf philodendron. For clarification, in this post, I am speaking of the Monstera deliciosa. This is then compared to the split-leaf philodendron, which used to have the scientific name of Philodendron bipinnatifidum or Philodendron selloum. But it has recently been re-classified as the Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum. So technically the split-leaf philodendron no longer belongs to the philodendron genus. This mixing of common names and re-classification of scientific names has only added to the confusion between these two indoor plants.

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Difference #1: Aerial Roots

The first main difference between the split-leaf philodendron and the monstera (specifically the monstera deliciosa, with the common name of the swiss cheese plant) is that in this plant’s natural habitat, monstera plants will climb up trees and other foliage in order to reach better lighting. This means that it has aerial roots that wrap around the trees, allowing it to climb. However, the split-leaf philodendron does not produce aerial roots nearly as readily as the monstera. Instead it produces a thick, stem like tree trunks, which gives it the structure that it needs to help support its large leaves.

This is also seen in the monstera adansonii, also called the swiss cheese plant (confusing, I know!). It looks more like the vining philodendrons with aerial roots that can attach to a moss pole and climb to great heights. The difference here, however, is the large fenestrations (or holes) in these smaller leaves that are not found in any of the other small philodendrons…

Split-leaf Philodendron
Monstera

Difference #2: Leaf Shape

The split leaf philodendron and the monstera have a slightly shape of the leaves that can be used to differentiate between plants. The leaf shape of the monstera is described as being more heart-shaped, while the philodendron is described as more of a feather shape. You can see this as the monstera leaf is usually more flat along its leaf margin, while the split leaf philodendron’s actual leaf section is mostly curved. This is also more prominent when the leaf size is larger, showing the split leaf philodendron’s prominent curves. It can be more difficult to tell in indoor monsteras as lower light levels can cause the plant’s leaves to be smaller and have little to no leaf fenestrations.

Split-leaf Philodendron
Monstera

Difference #3: Leaf Splits

The next difference that can be seen between the monstera and the split-leaf philodendron is the difference in leaf splits. The monstera has what is called fenestrations, which are holes that don’t always go to the edge of the leaf. You can see this particularly while the new monstera leaves are unfurling, while once it is fully unfurled it can sometimes appear to split all the way through to the leaf edge. This is also better seen in mature plants, since young plants will have leaves that are still entirely whole.

The split leaf philodendron, however, has grooves that aren’t exactly leaf splits, but more of an indent of the leaf. These indents begin at the outside of the leaf and go inward. This creates a very different leaf shape from the monstera plant.

Split-leaf Philodendron
Monstera

Difference #4: Leaf Joints

The leaf joint is right where the leaf attaches to the stem. Monstera deliciosa plants have much more pronounced leaf joints, whereas the split leaf philodendron’s leaf joints curve more directly into the leaf. The monstera leaf joint is more pronounced and has no clear arch into the leaf. This allows the plant to move its leaves around with changing sunlight.

Split-leaf Philodendron
Monstera

Difference #5: Leaf Texture

Another difference that you will see between Monstera and split-leaf philodendron plants is that the leaf texture is not the same. Monstera leaves are smooth, even though they have their fenestrations. The split-leaf philodendron, on the other hand, has bumps similar to the texture of an alocasia leaf. In this way you can tell the difference between these two plants simply by running your hand down a leaf!

split-leaf Philodendron
Monstera

Difference #6: Movement with Light

This difference between monstera and philodendron plants has to do with light sources. Monstera leaves follow the light on more of a daily basis, called heliotropism, whereas philodendron leaves don’t follow the light individually, but the plant senses where the light is and will grow in that direction, called phototropism. This difference is seen when you move a monstera plant around to receive light on it’s opposite side. You will see the leaves move, twisting upwards, and sometimes even completely flip around! Philodendrons do not do this, but instead if it is flipped around, it will start to slowly grow towards the new light source (instead of turning its leaves all within a few hours…) This is a sure-fire way to tell if you have a monstera or a philodendron!

Split-leaf Philodendron
Monstera

A Bonus Difference!

Now I’m including a Bonus difference here at the end because this difference is only seen in the wild… In it’s native habitat, a tropical habitat, Monstera deliciosa plant’s will actually flower and bear an edible fruit! This delicious fruit is said to have a “fruit-cocktail” flavor, a mix of pineapple, strawberry, guava, and more! I wish my little Monstera could fruit!!! (Unfortunately it would have to take up my whole office to be big enough for this! Haha!)

And, you might have guessed… split-leaf philodendrons do not have an edible fruit. As mentioned, though, this will only be seen in the wild, since it is extremely rare to have a fruit-bearing monstera indoors. I have heard that it could take up to thirty years for this tropical plant to grow large enough to fruit indoors. If it ever reaches the needed size and strength in its roots.

Split-leaf Philodendron
Monstera

So that is it for the differences between these two popular houseplants, the split-leaf philodendron and the monstera. Next time you are wondering which plant is which, you can remember these 6 differences, as well as you can now simply take a picture with your phone and ask Google! Crazy, right?! But it is important to know which plant you’ve just brought home, because as I mentioned earlier, they will have different care requirements that will lead you to give them different amounts of direct sunlight, different amounts of watering, and different propagation and pruning techniques.

For plant care tips, check out my blog post on how to care for monstera plants for more tips on how to avoid root rot, how much light to give your plants, and how to get large, fenestrated leaves.

Enjoy your indoor plants and feel free to follow me on Youtube for even more awesome houseplant tips!

Happy Digging!

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Frequently Asked Questions:

Is split-leaf philodendron the same as Monstera?

No. The split-leaf philodendron used to be classified as a philodendron species, the Philodendron bipinnatifidum or Philodendron selloum, whereas the Monstera is a true monstera species, usually referring to monstera deliciosa, monstera borsigiana, or monstera adansonii. These plants do often get mixed up, however, since some nurseries will call the Monstera plants by the common name of split-leaf philodendron, even though it is not a philodendron species.

Is a philodendron and a monstera the same plant?

No. The philodendron and monstera come from two different species (the philodendron spp. and the monstera spp.). Though some of their features might be similar, these plants originally come from different regions of the Americas, with the philodendron originating in south america and the monstera species originating farther north in central america.

How can you tell if a Monstera is a Philodendron?

The fastest way to tell if your monstera is really a monstera vs a philodendron is by testing it through sun exposure. Monstera leaves readily follow the sun, while philodendron leaves do not. Instead, they grow new leaves towards the sun. If you turn your plant around to allow the sun exposure on the opposite side of the plant, and you notice that the leaves lift and twist towards the light, then you have a monstera. If the leaves stay put, then you have yourself a philodendron.

Can you eat split-leaf philodendron?

No. The leaves of the true split-leaf philodendron (or Philodendron bipinnatifidum) are poisonous, particularly to animals. This is commonly confused with the monstera plant, which can also be improperly called a split-leaf philodendron. The monstera leaves are also toxic, but its fruit (found in the wild) is edible and is commonly eaten in tropical climates where the monstera is found. So if you find people telling you that split-leaf philodendrons are edible, remember they are most likely talking about monstera deliciosa, and ONLY the fruit of this plant.

Can you cross Monstera with Philodendron?

No. Philodendron and Monstera plants are two different species of plants, and as such they cannot cross-pollinate to create a new hybrid. The pollen from one plant will not be able to fertilize the other plant’s flowers.

Do split leaf philodendrons climb?

Yes. Philodendrons use aerial roots to wrap around other trees and vines to climb high into the canopy. They also grow to have a thick trunk to help support itself while it climbs high into the tropical canopy. Indoor philodendrons, however, will not have the same height as outdoors, and as such will never get so large and climb so high. They will grow larger, however, if provided a trellis to climb indoors.

Is philodendron toxic to touch?

The sap from philodendrons can cause skin irritation in sensitive people, such as a rash, redness, swelling, and dermititis. It is also important to refrain from touching your eyes or lips while dealing with this plant. The sap can also cause eye or lip irritation, which will cause redness and swelling due to the calcium oxalate crystals found within the plant.

How to Repot a Boston Fern in 5 Simple Steps!

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Is it time for you to repot your boston fern? I get it. This can be a daunting job…. Especially if this is your first time repotting a fern. But no worries! Just follow these 5 easy steps and you’ll be a fern-potting pro in no time! 

Just FYI…. these repotting steps will work for many different types of ferns, including sword fern, Kangaroo palm fern, rabbit foot fern, Maidenhair fern, etc. This particular post will focus on Nephrolepis exaltata, or the boston fern. But these methods can also be used for all other similar fern types!

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Step 1: Soak the Root Ball

To repot your fern, you’ll first want to soak the root ball. You are trying to get the soil lightly moist. This will make the soil and the roots a lot easier to work with during the repotting process. To do this, I recommend you water it thoroughly (until the water has penetrated the soil and is running out the bottom). Then let it sit for about 15 minutes to let any excess water run off. Now you’re ready to got your hands dirty!

Boston Fern Plant with copper watering can - watering plant

Step 2: Remove from the Pot and Loosen the Roots

Now that your soil is moist, it should come out of your pot fairly easy. Any difficult plants can be soaked for longer, or turned upside down to let gravity help you out. It is NOT a good idea to pull on the fronds, as this can damage your plant. If all else fails, just soak it for longer!

Once it’s out of the pot, you will need to loosen up the soil and “massage” the roots. This can be done by running your hands up and down the sides of the root ball, loosening the soil and the roots that are on the outside. You’ll also need to rub your hands along the bottom of the root ball to loosen any circling roots at the base. Any large circling roots will need to be either de-tangled or clipped.

If your roots are especially root bound, you dono’t need to spend hours massaging your soil. Instead, take a sharp knife (or I sometimes use my pruning shears!) and “score” the sides of your rootball.

If you don’t know what scoring is, it’s just a fancy word for running your knife up and down the sides of your root ball. This cuts up any roots that might be circling the pot and its the lazy-man’s way to quickly repot a fern, while still getting great results!

Step 3: Divide if Necessary

 If your fern looks like it has more roots than soil then you should divide your plant into two smaller plants.

To divide your plant, you can either massage the soil loose enough that you can pull sections apart, or you can simply cut it. Then to cut it, youll need a large sharp knife or a small, serrated saw. Use caution at all times and please wear gloves! To divide your fern, simply cut the root ball into the pieces you want. Just be careful that you dont damage the fronds in the process. Then place each new plant into a different pot. The new ferns might look slightly bare on one side, but don’t worry… in time there will be new growth that fills in the rough side. 

Step 4: Repot in a Slightly Larger Pot

When you repot your plant, (or possibly both boston fern plants), the new pot should only be a few inches deeper and wider than your current pot (or if dividing, your pot should be a few inches deeper and wider than your current rootball.)

If you place it in a pot that is too big, you could run into problems with root rot. Also, make sure that your pot always has drainage holes at the bottom. If you prefer the decorator pots, you can place your fern in a standard nursery pot that has good drainage, and then place this pot inside your decorator pot. I actually prefer this method because it reduces any water damage to my tabletops and windowsills.

Then simply place your fern into its new home and firmly press some fresh potting mix around it.

boston fern plant in new terracotta pot that is slightly larger than rootball

Step 5: Give Special Care for a few Days

When you’re done repotting your fern, you will need to water it again. You should do a thorough watering by placing it in a sink, tub, or outdoors, then add water until there is water dripping out the bottom of the pot. Then, once it has stopped dripping, place it in a location where it will stay out of direct sunlight for the next few days. This gives your plant a few days to recover and to seal over any damaged roots. 

Boston Fern Care

Boston ferns grow best with indirect sunlight and a humid climate. They also prefer an east or west facing window, where they can get a good amount of light but where they will also stay out of the hot afternoon sunlight. You need to be aware that the more light your fern receives, the more it will grow, but the more humidity and moisture the little guy will also need. 

Humidity

The best way to provide the high humidity that your fern needs is to use a room humidifier. These work great if you live in a dry climate or you have multiple humid loving plants. However, they can also be a bit expensive and will add humidity to your entire room.

Another way to increase humidity levels is to place your boston fern on the pebble tray, a.k.a. on a tray filled with pebbles and water. The relative humidity will increase as the water evaporates. This can also be simulated through regular misting of your fern. 

The final way to increase humidity levels for ferns is to place it in a group of other houseplants. While not as effective as the pebble method or adding a humidifier, grouping house plants together will add a small amount of extra moisture in the air. 

Fertilizer

You can use any liquid fertilizer that is recommended for houseplants, as long as you follow the instructions and apply the fertilizer at the recommended rates. Only use fertilizer in the spring and summer months, or during the plant’s growing season. I don’t recommend fertilizing your fern in the winter months, as this can cause a chemical burn to the root system. Instead, wait for early spring when you start seeing new fronds emerging from the root ball.

Yellow Leaves

Yellowing leaves is a common problem among indoor ferns and it can be caused by several things. I would suggest you first check your watering habits. Is the plant often dry? If so, then you might be having issues with too little water, too little humidity, and possibly even spider mites (they thrive in dry conditions!). If your fern is not dry, but is kept consistently moist, then I would recommend checking the plant’s roots for any fungal diseases or root rot. These are the most common reasons why fern leaves turn yellow.

image of boston fern plant on wood table

Frequently Asked Questions: 

Q1 What kind of soil do boston ferns like?

Boston ferns need moist soil that also drains well. I would recommend avoiding soil mixes for cacti and succulents and instead go with a regular indoor plant mix. You can also mix your own soil with perlite and either peat moss or coconut coir. Mix 2 parts potting soil to 1 part perlite and 1 part peat or coconut coir. Then if your plant is drying out too quickly, increase the amount of peat/ coconut coir.

Q2. Do Boston ferns need deep pots?

Boston ferns do not need unusually deep pots. Their depth should approximately match the fern’s height. If your pot is too deep, it could potentially cause a build-up of excess water at the bottom of the pot. This could cause root rot. 

Q3. How do you know when to repot a fern?

Ferns usually need to be repotted every year or two depending on its rate of growth. Your first sign it needs to be repotted is if it is drying out quickly. You shouldn’t need to water it more than once a day. Also, if you can see lots of roots protruding from the top of the soil, then it is definitely time to get him into a new pot and maybe even consider dividing it. 

Q4. What kind of pots do ferns like?

The first type of pot that ferns love is self-watering pots. These give them lots of consistent water, (ferns are heavy drinkers). These are the best for small ferns. However, for a fern that needs a larger container, plastic or ceramic glazed pots are best for indoor ferns. If growing outdoors, clay pots are usually your best bet. Then, if you plan on placing your fern in a hanging basket, I would recommend you use a ceramic pot. This is because plastic pots will heat up more than ceramic or clay pots, and this may cause stress on your plant. You will also need to increase the amount of water you give to your fern in a plastic pot. But either way, make sure your pot has good drainage holes and that the size of pot fits the size of your plant! 

That’s it for my tips on how to repot a Boston fern in 5 easy steps. For more awesome tips and personalized help, join my facebook group “Houseplants for Plant Killers”! And if you liked this post, please share it in your favorite social media group. You never know which of your friends are secretly struggling with a fern! 

Happy Digging!

How to Effortlessly Care for a Pilea peperomioides Plant

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Pilea peperomioides has become extremely popular as a houseplant in the past several years! Originating in the yunnan province of southern China, it seems like everyone wants one of these cute little guys with its round, saucer-like leaves that seem to bounce with every movement! It is also boasted as being a beginner houseplant that many people can easily take care of!

Unfortunately, I’ve found that without proper instruction or care information, this plant can actually be difficult for beginners. But don’t worry. Because this article has eveything you need to know to be able to set up your plant for success, so that it becomes the easy, low-maintenance plant that everyone talks about!

So if you want your plant to have huge, full leaves like you see on social media, then you’ll definitely need to read below to find out exactly how to care for your pilea peperomioides!

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In this article we are talking about pilea peperomioides, which is also known as:

  • Chinese money plant
  • UFO plant
  • pancake plant
  • missionary plant
  • friendship plant
  • coin plant

These names are also given to other houseplants, such as plants within the crassula and kalanchoe families. So if you have one of these little guys, make sure you become familiar with its scientific name! This will help you avoid a mix-up in the future!

Pilea Peperomioides Light Requirements

The pilea peperomioides may look like a tropical plant, but it is actually a type of semi-succulent. Being a succulent, it prefers lots of bright, indirect light. It can even handle short periods of direct sunlight, but too much sun can cause the leaves to turn yellow. Because of this “bright, but not too bright” balance, this little plant can be quite picky until it finds its perfect place within your home.

Some signs you can look for are that if your plant isn’t growing very quickly (or at all), it could be needing more light. Once it is moved to a brighter location, it should begin to grow more new leaves. (This is what happened to my pilea when I first got it! While it wasn’t getting enough light, it didn’t seem to grow at all… then I moved it into an east-facing window, and boom! New growth like crazy!)

On the flip side, if your plant is getting too much light, the leaves will begin to curl outward (like an umbrella), and there might even be “sunburn” spots on the leaves. This shows up as yellow or brown spots on the leaves.

Once your plant has found its perfect light spot, be sure to rotate the pot every couple of days. This is because the pilea tends to bend towards the light. So if you want your plant to look full and not curvy, make sure to rotate it!

Pilea Peperomioides Water Requirements

If you have other succulents, then you’ll know just how to water your pilea! This is because it likes consistent watering, but it also needs good drainage and doesn’t like to have its roots wet for long. If it stays wet for too long, it will be susceptible to root rot. Look for leaves that fall off without wilting, as well as thick, browning leaf stems. This is a sure sign of overwatering and means that you need to either lower your watering frequency, increase drainage in your pot, or possibly even move it to a smaller pot (so there isn’t as much moist soil).

The key here is that you don’t want to give it too much water, and make sure that you also don’t let it sit in water for long periods of time!

Another key to be aware of is that your pilea doesn’t like hard tap water. If you start to see holes in your plants’ leaves, then make sure that you switch to either distilled water, rainwater, or filtered water. Also, if you start to see white spots on the bottom of your leaves, this could be a mineral buildup from hard water. If you see these white spots, then you can wipe them clean with a damp cloth, being careful to not damage any of the leaves. Then switch to either filtered, distilled, or rain water. Here is the water filter that I personally use for my plants! (I have the smaller, indoor plant filter that I’ve installed under my bathroom sink!)

A final sign of water stress is when your pilea is changing its leaf shape. If the leaves are curling upward (like a cup), then this is a sign that it is receiving too much water. Be sure to either improve drainage in your pot, or to let it dry out a bit more between watering. This means that you need to let the top 1-2 inches of soil dry before you water your plant again. In smaller pots and plants, this might mean you are watering your pilea every couple of days, but in larger plants, this could mean you are watering once a week or so. Then adjust your watering schedule in the spring and fall during the seasonal changes in the growing season.

Pilea Peperomioides Fertilizer

Fertilize with a balanced fertilizer every other month during spring and summer (or according to the fertilizer label!). Your plant will be much happier with a nutrient boost! Use a well-balanced fertilizer (meaning that all three numbers are about the same) if you want an overall healthy plant. I personally use the Miracle-Gro Houseplant fertilizer, since it is at a low concentration so I can fertilize my plants whenever I water and I don’t have to worry about over-fertilizing. I’ve used other fertilizers in the past, but have found some to have strong odors. I’ll keep this updated if I find anything I like more!

Note: Be sure that you don’t fertilize your plant during the winter months when it is dormant. This can cause your pilea (and most other houseplants) to get a chemical burn.

Pilea Soil and Potting Needs

Like most succulents, pilea peperomioides plants do best with a well-draining soil. This can either be a cactus and succulent soil mix, or regular houseplant soil amended with sand or perlite. This also includes making sure that your pot has at least one drainage hole to allow any excess water to drain out the bottom of the pot.

Also be sure that your pot isn’t too large for your plant. A good rule of thumb is to make your pot slightly smaller than how wide your plant is. This will ensure that the roots have plenty of space to grow, but they also don’t have too much soil, which can hold excess water and cause overwatering problems. It’s better to let it get a bit root-bound than to have your plant in a pot that is too large.

Some good pot choices for this plant is either a terracotta pot or a plastic pot, as long as it has holes in the bottom that allow for good drainage. If it doesn’t have any holes, then you can easily drill your own holes with some tape and a drill!

Pilea Peperomioides Temperature

When it comes to the pilea plants, there is a lot of confusion about what the optimal temperature range is. Many people believe that this plant needs to be kept in a warm environment at all times, but this isn’t true. In fact, pilea plant can thrive in a wide variety of temperatures, making it an excellent choice for those who live in colder climates. The ideal temperature range for your plant is between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

The only caution that I have, however, is that while your plant is in lower temperatures in the winter, this usually also means that it will have lower light levels and may even go dormant. To account for this, you need to also lower your watering. If not, you might find yourself with root rot problems.

Pilea Peperomioides Pests

While this plant is generally pest free, there are a few pests that can occasionally bother this little guy. Identification and proper treatment of these pests is vital for keeping your plant healthy. Just make sure that as soon as you find insects on your plant, that you separate it from any other houseplants that are not yet infected. This can greatly reduce the spread.

The most common pests that affect this plant are spider mites and mealybugs.

To control for spider mites, you can mist your plant with water every few days (spider mites don’t like being wet!), or you can try spraying it with an insecticidal soap or neem oil.

For mealybugs, it is important that you spray your plant thoroughly with an insecticidal soap. Most mealybugs like to stay in little corners of your plants, which makes it very difficult to reach when spraying. I’ve found it most helpful to repeat applications every few weeks (according to the instructions on the label). For smaller plants, or to get rid of your mealybugs quickly, you can also comb through your plant with q-tips and rubbing alcohol. Simply coat the mealybugs with the alcohol and this will be enough to kill them.

Fungus gnats can also be a problem with this plant, but they usually only appear if you are also giving your plant too much water. By fixing your watering habits, this should keep the soil more on the dry side, which will also keep the fungus gnats away!

Pilea peperomioides Propagation

The Pilea peperomioides is an easy-to-propagate houseplant. There are several methods for propagating this plant, but the most popular (and easiest methods) are by division and by stem cuttings.

Division: The easiest way to propagate this plant is by dividing the mother plant and the baby plants it into several new plants. Simply take your plant out of its pot, loosen the soil, and separate the baby plant from the mother plant and repot it into its own new pot.

If you don’t have any baby plants, then you can also divide your plant into several smaller plants by cutting it into 3-inch pieces with a sharp knife and rooting these sections in water or soil. This method is a bit more risky, however, so I would suggest that if you don’t have any baby plants that you instead use the stem cutting method.

Stem Cuttings: Another way to propagate this plant is by taking stem cuttings. To take stem cuttings, you will need to prune leaves from the main stem of your plant. The best time to take stem cuttings is when new growth begins to appear on the plant. When removing the leaf from the mother plant, you will need to use a sharp knife to cut away a small (think scale-like) portion of the stem. This stem portion will be where the new roots will grow.

In conclusion, the pilea plant is a low-maintenance houseplant that can be enjoyed by anyone as long as you follow these simple care tips and remember to treat it more like your succulent plants (with a bit less sunlight). But by implementing these care tips, your plant will grow and thrive in your home and you’ll have your very own insta-worthy plant in no time!

For more ideas on what plants to grow as beginners, check out my post on Hard-to-Kill Houseplants! Then, if you want personalized plant care help, join my Facebook group Houseplants for Plant Killers! Because we’re all on this journey together!

Happy Digging!

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Frequently Asked Questions:

How often do you water a Pilea?

How often you should water your Pilea depends on a variety of factors, including the climate, pot size, and type of soil. In general, aim to water your Pilea every 5 to 7 days or so. The best rule of thumb is if the potting mix feels dry to the touch an inch below the surface, it’s time to water again.

Do Pilea like to be misted?

Pilea plants enjoy higher levels of humidity, so yes, they would enjoy being misted! Some otehr ways to achieve higher humidity levels are to place your plant on a pebble tray filled with water, or to place it near other water-loving plants such as pothos, philodendron, or ferns.

Are Pilea peperomioides easy to take care of?

Pilea plants are easy to take care of as long as you remember that they act more like a succulent than a tropical plant. Give it lots of bright indirect light and make sure that it has a chance to dry in between watering. The most common killer of this houseplant is by overwatering.

Is a Pilea a Peperomia?

No. The pilea actually comes from the Pilea genus. This is unlike the peperomia that comes from the Piperaceae genus (or the pepper family). The pilea peperomioides originates from southern China and has distinct differences from the peperomias that we also know and love.

What does it mean when your Pilea leaves curl?

Pilea leaves are normally flat, coin-shaped leaves protruding from a central stem. If your leaves are curling inward (like an umbrella), then this is a sign that it is getting too much light. But if your leaves are curling outward (like a cup), then this is a sign that your plant is getting too much water. Pretty crazy, right?!

Can I put my Pilea outside?

You can place your pilea outdoors in the warmer months, however, be careful to shade your plant from any hot direct sunlight. This plant can deal with only a few hours of morning or evening direct sunlight, so make sure that if you move your plant outdoors, that it is placed in a shaded location, such as under a covered patio or porch.

Why do Pilea leaves turn yellow?

Pilea leaves can turn yellow because of a number of different factors. First, they can yellow if your plant is getting overwatered. These yellow leaves will be fat, filled with water, and will drop off your plant. Next, if your plant is underwatered, the leaves will yellow, but then turn a gray-brown as it shrivels up and ultimately falls off the plant. Then last, the leaves will turn yellow but maintain green markings within the leaves if your plant is lacking in nutrients. This would require you to start a fertilizer routine for your Pilea.

How to Choose the Best Pots for Succulents (+5 Faves)

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Have you been eyeing a new succulent lately? Or maybe you have a growing collection and just need a new pot? Whether you’re a beginner or a succulent expert, we all need to have one thing right in our succulent care. And that is… we need to choose the right pot!

So what are the best pots for succulents? Today I’m going to tell you exactly what works and what doesn’t work for succulent pots, as well as give you some recommendations of my personal faves. Then if you still have questions, check out my “Frequently Asked Questions” section at the bottom of the page. Or just scroll down to see my top 5 best succulent pots!

Ready?! 

Let’s dig in!

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What Makes the Best Pots?

There are three keys that you need to look for in the right container. The perfect succulent pot would consider:

  • Drainage
  • Material
  • Size

Let’s address these things one at a time.

#1: Proper Drainage

I’m sure you’ve heard it before, but let me stress this fact… succulent pots NEED drainage holes!!!!

Technically, you CAN keep succulents alive in pots without drainage holes by simply adding only small amounts of water at a time. I know, because I’ve done this. But speaking from experience, these succulents never thrive like the succulents that I have in my pots with good drainage. This is because when your pots have proper drainage, you can water your plant as much as you want at each watering and the excess water will simply drain out.

But with pots that have no drainage holes (such as the pretty glass containers they show on Pinterest), these pots will leave you to always be fighting your moisture levels, since one little extra watering could potentially kill your whole plant. Personally, I tend to under-water these succulents to avoid accidentally giving them too much water. But as a result, my succulent plants are never as healthy.

So long story short… get a pot with drainage holes! Just do it!

#2: Pot Material

I would argue that pot material is the least important thing out of the three keys for choosing the best pot for succulents. This is because pot material alone will not kill your succulents.

Terra Cotta/Ceramic Pots

Terracotta pots, or ceramic pots, are definitely the best choice for succulent pots. This is due to the fact that the clay can actually soak up some of the excess moisture, giving your plant a little extra buffer between wet and dry phases. Be careful in the winter, though, as wet ceramic pots (in cold temperatures) can take longer to dry out. This could potentially cause overwatering problems for people who tend to water too much in the winter.

So the best pot material for succulents is terra cotta pots, unless you tend to overwater your plants during the winter. 

Plastic Pots

Plastic pots and plastic containers are also a fine choice for succulents as long as they have sufficient drainage, are heavy enough to not tip over, and are not left outdoors.

Some succulents grow more vertically and can become top heavy. Plastic pots are usually lighter and easily fall over in these situations. To fix this, use sand instead of perlite in your succulent soil mix. This will help to weigh down any tipsy pots!

Next, if you are keeping your succulent outdoors, I do not recommend using plastic pots. This is first because of their higher chances of falling over due to their low weight. Second, plastic pots have a tendency to heat up and dry out faster when exposed to high temperature than clay pots or concrete pots. And third, plastic pots can freeze and deteriorate quickly in very cold climates. This is why I only recommend plastic pots for indoor use.

Metal Pots

Metal pots and metal containers usually have the same heat issue as plastic pots. For this reason, you should keep a metal pot indoors only. If you want to move your succulents outdoors, then a good choice would be a terracotta or concrete pot.

Concrete Pots

Concrete pots are similar to clay pots in that they are both a breathable material. Concrete pots are particularly good in outdoor spaces where they will be durable and protective to your succulents. Just be sure to keep in mind that real concrete pots can be extremely heavy. This is good for areas that are prone to high winds (especially if you live within hurricane areas), since your concrete planters will be sure to protect your plants when the weather gets tough!

#3: Size of Pot

Pot size is, in my opinion, the MOST OVERLOOKED problem of succulent killers. Because if your pot is too big, your succulent will die!!! 

This is more of a water problem than a size problem. If you have a large pot, then you will have lots of soil that will be wet. This soil will have water where the small plant roots can’t reach. This extra, unreachable water will cause too much moisture to sit for too long and will lead to root rot.

Even with proper drainage, you need to make sure that the walls of your pot are only an inch or two bigger than your succulents’ current pot (on all sides). This is why a lot of succulent planters tend to be shallow pots that can fit a few succulents together in an arrangement, but that are still shallow enough that the small roots can still reach the bottom of the pot.

Potting Multiple Succulents Together

If you want to pot multiple succulents together in a succulent arrangement or succulent planter, then your best bet is to buy a large, shallow container. Then, make sure that it is stuffed full of succulents! This will help it have enough roots everywhere so you won’t have those pockets of soil that the roots can’t reach…

Pot Recommendations:

  • All-Around Favorite: D’vine Dev Terracotta Pots
  • Best for Shorter Succulents (And Best Value!): Brajtt Plant Pots
  • Best for a Group of Succulents: Kimisty 10 Inch Round Succulent Planter Bowl
  • Best for Hanging Succulents: Mkono 8 inch Ceramic Hanging Planter
  • Best for Large Succulents: Aveyas 6/8/10 inch Ceramic Planter Pot

#1: All-Around Favorite – Terracotta Pots by D’vine Dev

These pots are fantastic because they are not only terracotta pots, but they also have drainage holes, the perfect-fit saucer, a drainage net (to keep the soil from coming out), and a “scratch pad” to put under your pot. This ensures that your pot has great drainage, but also that it keeps your surfaces dry and scratch-free! 

These guys have really thought of everything that an indoor succulent grower needs out of a pot. And that’s why it’s my all-around favorite set of succulent pots!

#2: Best for Shorter Succulents (And Best Value) – Brajtt Succulent Pots

These white, modern pots are perfect for your shorter succulents that don’t have deep root systems. I love that each pot has a small drainage hole, and they come with a functional, stylish bamboo tray to catch any excess water before it stains your window ledge.

And to get 8 pots for only $14.99 (at the time of writing this post)… that’s an AMAZING deal!!!

#3: Best for a Group of Succulents – Kimisty 10 inch Round Succulent Planter Bowl

This planter dish is perfect for succulent arrangements or succulent gardens! It is a glazed ceramic pot with a drainage hole and a plug (to keep your surfaces clean!). It also has a gorgeous, airy stand and white decorative rocks to make your succulent garden go from amateur to professional!

I especially love the size of this planter dish, since most are only about 6” long. With this dish coming in at a solid 10” diameter, (choose the “large” size), it fits a lot of succulents!

#4: Best for Hanging Succulents – Mkono 8 Inch Ceramic Hanging Planter

I searched far and wide for the perfect hanging succulent planters, and this is the one that I finally discovered!

It is a sturdy glazed ceramic pot that comes with a removable drainage plug for excess water. It also comes with a rope and pre-drilled holes, so all you need now is a strong hook! This hanging pot is suitable for indoor or outdoor use.

#5: Best For Large Succulents – Aveyas 6/8/10 Inch Ceramic Planter Pot

This sleek, modern pot is perfect for larger succulents! It comes with both a drainage plug and a saucer so you can really control the pot’s drain holes and protect your furniture. This pot also comes with a matching pot stand, a drainage net, and planter filler to add even more drainage to the bottom of your pot!

Your large succulents are definitely going to enjoy being in one of these!

Those are my best pots for succulents! If you still have questions, check out the frequently asked questions below, or join my plant community on Facebook, Houseplants for Plant Killers!

Then if you’re looking for your next step in your succulent journey, download my free resource, the Succulent Care Guide!

Happy Digging!

Frequently Asked Questions:

Do succulents need deep pots?

Larger succulents need deep pots, but small succulents would die in deep pots. The trick is to plant your succulent in a pot that is only an inch or two deeper than its current pot. This way, the root system will be able to reach the water all the way at the bottom of your pot.

Do succulents grow better in pots?

Most plants grow better when planted in the ground. However, if your environment isn’t hot and dry, then your succulents would actually prefer to be in a pot, where they will have better drainage and can be brought indoors when it gets cold or damp.

Can succulents stay in small pots?

Some small succulent varieties will stay perfectly happy in their small pots. However, some larger succulents will grow to where they don’t have enough room and will eventually need to be repotted into larger pots. This all depends on your type of succulent and its mature size and growth habit.

Do succulents like to be crowded?

Yes. If your succulents are in a wide pot, they do better if they are crowded. This lessens the possibility of your pot having drainage issues. It also makes the most beautiful succulent arrangements. So feel free to pack them in!

Do you put succulents in plastic pots?

Yes, you can. Just make sure that your pot still has good drainage. Don’t use plastic pots for outdoor succulents, though, as these tend to heat up, dry out, and fall over more than ceramic pots. For indoor use, however, plastic pots will be just fine.

What is the easiest succulent to grow?

There are a number of succulents that are easier to grow than others. These include haworthias, echeverias, and sedums. For a complete list, check out my post 12 Easiest Succulents to Grow Indoors.

How often should you water a succulent?

Generally, you should water your succulents once the soil has become dry, but before it begins to pull away from the sides of your pot. This is usually between every five to seven days, depending on the amount of sunlight, temperature, and season. Check out my post “How Often Should I Water my Succulent” for more details.

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The Ultimate Guide to Pothos Plant Care [+Free Care Pages!]

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Pothos, or Epipremnum aureum, is a fantastic plant for anyone wanting a little more green in their home… It is one of the easiest tropical plants to grow and I recommend it to everyone. Especially to those who think that they can’t grow anything. Pothos is also listed as one of NASA’s top list of plants that clean the air! And if that isn’t enough, here are also some awesome tips to help you with your pothos plant care. Enjoy!

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Pothos Vine Care: Light Requirements

There are many different types of Pothos, or devil’s ivy, that are sold in garden centers today. The most common ones are:

  • Golden Pothos (green with a yellow pattern)
  • Marble Queen Pothos (green with a white pattern)
  • Jade Pothos (simply, but elegantly green)
  • N’Joy (a variegated white and green leaf)
  • Pearls and Jade (similar to N’Joy but usually has more white along the outside edges)
  • Neon Pothos (a fun, bright green variety)
  • Cebu blue (an Epipremnum pinnatum, with long, blue-green leaves)

As it goes, the brighter the leaf, the more bright indirect light it needs. The darker leaves can withstand lower light levels, but if you want larger leaves, then give it more light!

For example, Neon would like the brightest light, then Marble Queen, Golden, and finally Jade doesn’t do well in too bright light. However, all Pothos varieties can still grow and do well in low light conditions. They will just eventually lose their colors and all start to look like the normal Jade Pothos when in low light conditions. This is totally fine, but if you are absolutely devastated that the colors are leaving, then just move it to a brighter location.

One thing to remember with lighting, though, is that Pothos does not like to be in direct sunlight! This will cause the leaves to start looking dull and they may even turn a pale-yellow color. This is a sign of a “plant sunburn” from too much light. So adjust accordingly. If your pothos is losing its variegation and colors, then this is a sign of too little light. However, if your plant is turning a pale yellow, too much light. Simple, right?!

Pothos Vine Care: Water Requirements

As for watering, pothos plants can be easier than most indoor plants, but there are a few points to consider. This is because pothos can do well growing in a pot with soil, or can grow in straight water! But if your plant has been living in soil, you don’t want to put it in straight water and vice versa. These plants adapt very well so if it’s in soil, then only water when the top inch of soil has dried. Too much water and they will start to rot. But if it’s in water, then keep it in water and just make sure that the water is changed out every two weeks.

Pothos plants can adjust from water to soil, but they need to be well-watered during this transition.

If your leaves are a bright yellow color, then your plant is too dry. You can let the leaves get a little wilted before watering, but if they curl or turn yellow, then you’ve waited too long. On the flip side, if your plant’s new and older growth turns black, then this is a sign that it is either being over-watered, or that the air temperature is too low. (They don’t like being in air colder than about 50° F.)

Pothos Vine Care: Fertilizer & Pot Choice

Remember that Pothos in soil like to get a bit root-bound, so don’t re-pot it until the roots have filled out the container. They can also be fertilized once every two to three months during the summer. Only be careful because too much fertilizer (large amounts every week) can cause stunted growth. Personally, I feel that Pothos generally grows fast enough and doesn’t need any additional fertilizer, but it is really up to you. If you want a plant with huge, 2 foot leaves, then it’ll need fertilizer and plenty of light.

Also, make sure that your pot has at least one good drainage hole in the bottom of the pot. This is recommended for all houseplants as excess water can pool at the bottom of your pot, causing root rot, which is one of the few ways this plant could potentially die. If you tend to have problems with knowing when to water your pothos, I would recommend using a self-watering pot.

Quick story with this self-watering pot… One day last year I came home with two 3″ pothos (a golden and a marble queen). I placed them both in my office, and loved them so much! But a few weeks after purchasing, I received a few self-watering pots in the mail. So, my golden pothos ended up getting placed in a self-watering pot directly underneath my plant light, while my marble queen was left in her 6″ pot near the light, but not directly under it…

Fast forward about three months, and my golden pothos was DOUBLE the size of my marble queen!

This just shows how much a plant light and a self-watering pot can do to make your plant LOVE YOU!!!

*Update: Since this experiment, I have switched my marble queen to a self-watering pot, and she is starting to grow like crazy too, even though it’s winter time (aka NOT the typical growing season!)*

Pothos Vine Care: Pruning Tips

A lot of people also have a hard time keeping their Pothos from becoming too long and thin. We want a bushy-looking, full trailing vine. This only comes with regular trimming. Simply cut off the ends of the vines every month or so. You can either re-pot them in a light potting mix, such as vermiculite, or simply grow them in a glass of water. This will not only make your plant look healthy and vibrant, but will also give you plenty more little Pothos plants to add into your home!

Pothos Vine Care: Propagation

Pothos vines are one of the easiest houseplants to propagate due to its aerial roots and fast growth rate. For information on how to propagate your pothos, (and how to get PERFECT stem cuttings…) check out my post on Pothos Propagation!

Be aware: This plant is toxic to pets and children who may ingest large quantities of plant material. It isn’t fatal, but it may cause irritation and vomiting. It may also cause a skin rash for some people who have very highly sensitive skin. Check out my list of plants that are toxic to pets, as well as my list of non-toxic houseplants!

Well there are my tips! I hope you decide to pick up one of these little guys, or root out your own cutting! They are seriously one of the easiest houseplants to grow, and are great for those who want a low-maintenance, low-light option!

Happy Digging!

Frequently Asked Questions:

Do Pothos Plants Need a lot of Sunlight?

Yes and no. If you are okay with your leaves losing their yellow or white markings, then they will be just fine in low-light conditions. However, if you want your pothos to grow faster, and keep its beautiful colorings, then it will need enough light to keep it happy. This means lots of bright, indirect sunlight, as hot, direct sunlight can potentially burn your pothos vines.

How do you make Pothos Happy?

The easiest way to make a pothos happy is to stick it in a self-watering pot in an east- or west-facing window. They also love bright bathrooms where they can enjoy high humidity levels. (Just make sure there isn’t too much sun in the hot afternoons!)

Why are Pothos Leaves turning Yellow?

Yellow leaves are usually a sign of either too little water, or too little sunlight. This is the plant’s way of coping with an unfavorable environment. To fix this, simply increase your watering (to have moist soil that only slightly dries out between watering). You can also move it to a location with more light, or consider bringing in additional lighting, such as fluorescent lighting or LED lights that are made for indoor plants.

Do Pothos like to be Watered?

Yes, pothos like to be watered. But make sure that you have good drainage in your pot so that any excess water can flow out of your pot. Then let the soil lightly dry out in between watering. This means that you will naturally water less in the winter months and more in the summer months. If you aren’t sure about watering, grab a Soil Water Meter!

Should I mist my Pothos?

Misting a pothos is generally unnecessary. However, in the winter months, indoor air can be dry and your plant can become dusty. These dry, dusty conditions can attract spider mites. If you see these insects, then definitely start misting (as well as treating with an insecticidal soap). This is because spider mites DO NOT like to be wet!

How do you tell if Pothos is Overwatered?

First, your soil will be wet. If you can press the top of the soil, and water appears, then there is too much water! Next, your pothos will be wilted, and there can possibly be brown spots on the leaves or stems that feel mushy to the touch. Your plant will also feel somewhat fat because the leaves are filled with water. Make sure your pot has drainage holes, and that your soil feels slightly dry to the touch every 5 days or so.

How do you Train a Pothos to Climb?

Pothos vines have aerial roots that will only grow into moist, natural materials. This is something like a moss pole, or in nature, a tree trunk. To get a pothos to climb indoors, however, simply use plant ties, command hooks, or even pieces of string to train your pothos up any vertical support.

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The 5 Signs your Plants Need Filtered Water

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Do you REALLY need filtered water for your plants? I know there is a huge controversy about benefits vs costs, but after doing some research (… a LOT of research…), I’ve found that yes, effects can be small. But small things add up. 

A favorite podcaster of mine always stresses this when he points out that if you had a penny that doubled every day for only 30 days, by the end of the month you would have over 5 MILLION dollars! Just from a single penny! (Rob Dial, The Mindset Mentor)

So when I think about watering my plants, I think about how many drops I am giving them every day, every week, every year. It really adds up! And that’s why I use filtered water.

But the decision is ultimately up to you. I’m just here to point out the 5 signs that your plants might need filtered water. 

*Note: This post contains affiliate links, which if purchased, I will receive a small portion of the profits. This helps me keep providing this information to all of you. But, I only promote products that I have personally tried and love!*

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Sign #1 – Brown leaf tips, or brown, dying spots

Brown leaf tips and brown, dying (necrotic) spots can be caused by a few different factors, but they have both been linked to problems with water contamination. Now, this isn’t saying that your tap water is dangerous to drink… instead, it’s just dangerous to some of your more sensitive plants.

These two contaminants are chlorine, a chemical used to kill harmful bacteria in water, and flouride, a chemical that is actually added to water as it helps people have healthier teeth.

An excess of chlorine is what contributes to brown leaf tips in sensitive plants. These plants include: palms, spider plants, dracaena, azaleas, camellias, gardenias, etc.

An excess of fluoride, however, causes necrotic spots along leaf edges. These fluoride-sensitive plants include those listed above as well as ti plants, prayer plants, and calatheas.

So if your plants are showing either of these symptoms, then it’s a sign you need filtered water.

Sign #2 – It’s hot outside

You might not know this, but the concentration of chemicals in your drinking water will actually change with the weather. This is because most water treatment plants are outdoors, and the variation in temperatures can cause different levels of bacterial and microbial growth.

It has been seen that as it gets hotter, water treatment plants need to use more chlorine than usual to kill these microbes. So if it’s getting hot outside, then not only will your plants need more water, but they will also have a higher chance of absorbing too much chlorine.

https://medium.com/@HomeWaterPros/chlorine-levels-in-drinking-water-reach-their-peak-during-the-end-of-summer-77e4f8b72358

Sign #3 – Your Soil is Turning White

A common question that a lot of people ask me is… “What is that white stuff on my soil? And how do I get rid of it?” The short answer is, this is a mineral build-up, and you need to leach it from the soil.

The problem with this short answer, though, is that this mineral build-up is most commonly caused by sodium carbonate… a chemical used to “soften” water (which usually makes it taste better when we drink it). 

These salts, while they might not be too harmful to us, can eventually lead to some major problems for our plants, especially if the soil is never replaced or leached. (After all, there’s a reason why the Salt Flats don’t have a lot of vegetation y’all!)

So, I recommend that people leach out their pots… (running a bunch of water through the soil to flush out any harmful chemicals or built-up minerals). This will be harder for those of you with garden plants, but even with indoor plants, it can take a lot of time and a warm location where the soil can dry.

The one problem, though, is how useful is leaching if you’re using the same water that contains the same amounts of sodium as before? So you see how it really is a short-term solution that doesn’t change the root of the problem.

Sign #4 – Your Plant isn’t Growing as Big

This sign is mainly for outdoor and garden plants, but it can also apply to indoor plants.

To dive into the “why” of this sign, we need to remember that water treatment plants have the goal to kill microbes that are living in our water. In fact, it is the water treatment plants that help keep us safe from cholera, E. coli, and Giardia. So they add chlorine, trihalomethanes (TTHM), and haloacetic acids (HAA5) to our water to kill any living microbes.

The problem with this, though, is that it kills beneficial microbes as well.

These beneficial microbes (like mycorrhizae) help break down nutrients in the soil so they can be absorbed by the plant roots. This is one reason why most quality fertilizers contain beneficial microbes.

So if your plants aren’t growing as fast, it could be because the chemicals in your water are killing these beneficial microbes, leaving your plants on their own.

https://extension.umd.edu/resource/chlorine-toxicity

Sign #5 – You’re Not on Well Water

Well water can actually be better for plants than city water because it usually has fewer disinfecting chemicals, less or no fluoride, and higher mineral (a.k.a. nutrient) concentrations. But if you’re on “city” water, then you might like it more, but your plants will get the short end of the stick!

Those are the 5 signs that your plants need filtered water.

And if you’re now thinking you need a filter, I personally use and love this water filter system from GrowMax Water. I chose this one because I can use it for my indoor plants all winter (when it’s cold outside!), and then I can bring it outdoors in the summer to use for my garden!

It’s super light and connects to both under my sink, and onto my spigot! I just love this little guy!

filter option if your plants need filtered water

If you have any more plant-related questions, feel free to comment below or shoot me an email. You can also join my Facebook group, “Houseplants for Plant Killers” to receive personalized help and plant tips whenever you need!

Happy Digging!

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Are African Violet Houseplants Safe for Cats?

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Being a cat owner myself, I know that it’s extremely important to keep your pets safe. But does that mean you have to sacrifice your plant collection? Nope! Even if your feline friend likes to try a few bites every now and again, there are quite a few popular houseplants that are non-toxic and safe for cats!

But here’s the real reason why you’re reading my post…

You want to know… Are African Violets safe for my cat?

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Scientific Name: Saintpaulia 

Common Name: African Violet

Toxicity Level: Non-Toxic

According to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (aka the ASPCA), African Violets are non-toxic. They are specifically labelled as safe for cats, dogs, and even horses!

This means that this plant will not cause any major problems if your cat decides to try a few bites. 

Good news, right?!

But before you go, here are a few ESSENTIAL tips that all cat owners need to know to keep their pets safe…

There’s Still a Chance for Poisoning…

While African Violets aren’t poisonous plants, there are still a few ways your curious cats can get into trouble. 

This is if you, or the person you bought your plant from (usually a commercial greenhouse), have been using strong fertilizers or a systemic insecticide on your plant.

Strong fertilizers (different from what you buy at your local garden center) have the possibility of causing gastrointestinal issues. However, this is only if your pet has been ingesting large amounts of the plant over a long period of time. If your plant is relatively new, or you plan on busting out the super, high-intense, extra-strength, commercial-grade fertilizers, then you should probably keep your plant away from your cat.

A more harmful substance is a systemic insecticide. These are insecticides that are absorbed by the plant (usually through the root system), so that when an insect eats any part of the plant, it will die.

Now, your cat probably won’t die due to the fact that he or she won’t be eating their entire body weight’s worth of poisonous leaves like the insects do, but this still isn’t good for your pet and can cause MAJOR harm… (anyone else thinking of Snow White and the Poisoned Apple?!?!)

Symptoms of Poisoning

Cats Protection lists the following as symptoms of poisoning:

  • Vomiting
  • Excess Salivation
  • Diarrhea
  • Body Spasms/Twitching
  • Difficulty Breathing
  • Shock
  • Inflammation of the Skin
  • Sudden Changes in Eating, Drinking, or Urination
  • Sudden Depression or Coma

If your cat is experiencing any of these symptoms, then immediately call either your veterinarian, or the pet poison helpline at 1-888-426-4435.

Pet Poison Helpline: 1-888-426-4435

When to Not Worry…

You shouldn’t worry if your cat has only ingested a small amount of your African Violet and is only showing signs of slight gastrointestinal discomfort (or stomach upset). This is normal when your little fur baby has eaten something that is new to them… (trust me… I used to get the same gut feeling when I ate sushi for the first time, haha!)

These signs of discomfort should be mild and should only last a short duration of time. If, however, symptoms persist, or if they get worse, then immediately seek help from your veterinarian or call the pet poison helpline.

Safe Houseplants for Pet Owners

That’s all you need to know about African Violets and your cats! If you’re looking for more indoor plants that will be safe for your cats, then check out my list of Non-Toxic Plants for Cats and Dogs!

And to be extra cautious, you should probably also check out my list of Poisonous Indoor Plants as well.

Here’s to keeping safe with your precious, (taste-testing) fur baby!

Happy Digging!

*Note: I am not a veterinarian, and hold no liability for any damage or loss of life that occurs. To be safe, I suggest you consult with a professional, such as your veterinarian.*

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3 Steps to Quickly Save your Overwatered Succulents

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Overwatered. The one word that every succulent owner comes to know and fear at least once during their plant journey. But don’t worry. An overwatered succulent is on the path to dying, but by immediately doing these three steps, you might be able to preserve at least a part of your beloved plant! So here are the three things you need to do as soon as you notice that your succulent has been overwatered.

*Note: For those of you who want to watch all of the steps, here is my video where I go through exactly what you need to do to save your over-watered succulents!*

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Step #1: Prepare the Roots

Take your succulent out of its current pot and remove as much of the soil as possible from its roots. This can be done by holding your succulent above a bowl or a tray and gently massage the root system to allow the soil to fall into the tray. If your soil is very wet, then you might have to support some of the roots to keep the wet soil from ripping the roots off when it falls.

Another way to gently remove soil from the roots is to use water to wash off the soil. This is best done outdoors with a hose to avoid getting soil down an indoor drain system.

Overwatered Succulent Roots

Depending on how much root rot has occurred, some of you might still have a root system to work with, while others of you might not have any root system left. This is seen when the stem of the plant is mushy and separates from the root system easily. However, if you do have a root system remaining, then let any roots lightly air dry in a warm location for about 20 minutes to an hour. Make sure that this succulent (and its roots!) stay out of direct sunlight!

Step #2: Remove Dead Portions

If you have a root system that is still attached to your plant, then simply trim off and remove any black or mushy roots. Then pour hydrogen peroxide over the roots that remain. The hydrogen peroxide will help kill any bacteria rot in the roots!

Hydrogen Peroxide on Succulent Roots

If you don’t have a root system left, then assess the stem of your succulent. Trim off any portion of the stem that is discolored. This should leave you with only a top portion of the plant remaining. If the majority of the stem is discolored, try to take off a few of the best-looking leaves to prepare for the third and final step. Try to take leaves from the top of the plant as these are always the last to become affected by overwatering. Just keep in mind that you will want to try to choose any fully-formed leaves as leaves that are just starting to grow from the top won’t be as easy to propagate.

Step #3: Repot or Propagate

If your root system is still intact, then let it lightly dry out before repotting. When placing it back into soil, you will want to correct any issues that were causing it to be overwatered. Three things that you can adjust is to either repot your succulent into a smaller pot, repot it into a pot with better drainage (either switch to a clay pot, a pot with larger drainage holes, or both!), or repot it using a lighter soil (such as a cactus and succulent mix, or a perlite mix).

For those of you who only have a stem or leaves left, then you will need to start by drying your cuttings out for a few days (1-2 days away from direct sunlight). Then propagate them by using the instructions found in my post How to Propagate Succulents.

Another great tool to help you avoid overwatering in the future is to use a soil moisture meter. I have personally never overwatered a single plant since purchasing this soil moisture meter! It really is a game-changer!

Well I hope that this process goes well for you and your succulent. It can be a very delicate process as you save your succulent from being overwatered. I hope that this 3-step process has helped you to have success. And once again, be sure to buy a soil moisture meter to prevent this from ever happening again!

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Happy Digging!

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