Hey y’all! So here’s a question that gets asked a ton!
“How often should I water my succulents???”
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And do you know what? I can’t give you a solid number of days or anything because it varies so much!
Some things that affect how often your succulent needs water:
air humidity
temperature
hours and strength of sunlight
how large your succulent is
the type of pot you are using
the type of soil you are using
This is a TON to factor in, huh?!
So how do you know how often you should water your succulents?!
Here’s what I can tell you… (And I promise, it will help!!)
Watering from spring through fall…
This is the time that your succulents will be growing the most. At this time, water your succulent only when the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the soil is dry. If you let the soil dry all the way (to where the soil is so dry that it’s pulling away from the sides of the pot), then you’ve let it get too dry. But on the flip side, if you don’t let it dry enough, then you could cause root or stem rot on your plant!
So once again… water ONLY when the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the soil is dry. (Or when you stick your finger in the dirt, it doesn’t feel moist at the tip of your finger… then water!)
Winter watering…
This is when your succulent is usually growing less and is using less water. Cool temperatures are also keeping your succulent’s soil from drying out as fast. The key to winter watering is to only add small amounts of water as needed. All we are trying to do is to keep the soil from completely drying out.
Tip: If your succulent’s soil is still fully wet several days after watering, quickly remove it from the soil and re-pot into dry potting soil. After 24 hours, only lightly water.
So there you have it! During the summer, you might be watering your succulent every 1-5 days, but in the winter, you might find yourself only watering a little bit once a week (or even less!) Again, it all depends on your environment and your succulent, but make sure to check the soil moisture levels before you do any watering. Because nothing kills a succulent faster than too much water!
And if you’re still having issues with your watering, just go ahead and buy a soil moisture meter! Simply stick it into the soil, and this cool little meter will tell you how wet or dry your soil is! Just wait for it to get dry, then water! Simple, right?!
Ever struggle with keeping your succulents alive? I know I have. It’s taken some time to understand these plants that have become so popular. This is because indoor conditions don’t naturally support these cute little creations. We need to take special care of succulents to keep them thriving and happy all year round!
**Note: This post contains affiliate links, which if purchased, I will receive a portion of the profits at no extra cost to you. This helps me to keep providing you with this awesome information!**
Taking Care of Succulents: Water
The biggest factor for succulent success is proper watering. For these plants, always remember… less is more! Because their leaves are filled with water, they don’t need as much water in their roots. Only water your succulent when the soil is dry to the touch. Also, a huge factor in keeping your succulent from getting too much water is in making sure it has good drainage in the pot. Make sure that your succulent pots have holes in the bottom to let out extra water. Also make sure to use special soil, such as succulent and cactus mix, or regular potting soil mixed with vermiculite. These soils improve drainage and keep your succulent from sitting in water. Because nothing kills a succulent faster than too much water!
Janie over at Succulent Alley has an awesome post comparing the different types of succulent soil. So if you don’t have your own soil yet, definitely check this one out… Best Soil for Succulents!
*A way to tell if your succulent is getting too much or too little water is to look at the leaves. If they are getting wrinkled and turning brown, then you need to water more often. If they are staying fat and getting mushy, then your plant is getting way too much water.*
Another huge factor in succulent survival is where it is placed indoors. Succulents naturally occur in hot and warm environments. When choosing where to place your succulent think of sunny and warm. These plants need plenty of natural sunlight (from a south-, or east-facing window), or else they will start to stretch. This is the plant’s natural response as it tries to reach for additional sunlight. To keep your succulent healthy, it needs to be placed in a location where it will receive the proper lighting and temperature.
Taking Care of Succulents: Temperature
One last thing to watch out for is either too much direct sunlight in the summer, or cold drafts in the winter. If your succulent isn’t used to direct sunlight, then placing it in direct, afternoon sun can cause the leaves to burn. Leaf burn looks like brown, purplish patches across the surface of the leaf. If this is happening to your succulent, then immediately move it to a spot out of hot, direct sunlight. What they like best is direct morning or evening sun from an east- or west-facing window. But remember, if it starts to stretch, then it is a sign that it needs more sunlight. There is definitely a fine balance that succulents need.
Extra Bonus: Watering in Winter…
During the winter, succulents may need to be moved to a more sunny window… but beware of cold temperatures. The first sign that temperatures are too cold is that the water in the pot will take a lot longer to drain. Once this starts to happen, immediately start watering less! Most succulents only need a fraction of their usual water in the winter. The tip to remember here is that in the winter, only water enough to keep the soil from completely drying out. And only add small amounts of water each time.
If the succulent is getting too much water during the winter, then it will start to rot. This is seen when the leaves and stem begin to get mushy. This is the most common cause of death during the winter. Also be aware of your succulents that are placed directly on a windowsill or next to an exterior door. These might get too cold from drafts entering the space. If succulents get too cold, they will freeze. However, like I said before, your succulent is much more likely to rot due to overwatering in cold weather than it is to freeze.
Well, those are the main things to help care for your succulent! For information on growing more succulents, check out my post on Propagating Succulents! And for more quick tips on succulents and houseplants in general, check out Porch.com’s Everything About Plants Q&A!
Let me know if there are any tips or tricks that you’ve had success with, or if you have any specific questions for your own succulents… just join my Facebook group and share! I love to hear from you!
The Rubber Plant, Ficus elastica, is one awesome plant for the indoors. Not only is it super popular and can be found at many of the mainstream gardening centers, but it has also gained this popularity for being showy and relatively easy to care for! But the big question is, how do you take care of it? No one wants to spend money on a beautiful plant, just to see it die within a month. That’s just sad. So here are some tips to keep your rubber plant green and healthy!
*If you don’t yet have one of these cool plants, you can get one here!*
**Note: This post contains affiliate links, which if purchased, I will receive a portion of the profits at no extra cost to you. This helps me to keep providing you with this awesome information!**
Rubber Plant Light Requirements
Rubber plants are a bit more precise when it comes to light. They like bright, but indirect light. That means a nice sunny room, without being right in front of the window. If it has to be in some direct sunlight, it would prefer morning light, when the sun still isn’t too harsh. Some signs to look for are if the plant starts stretching out and the lower leaves drop, then your plant needs more light. If the leaves are full, but are drooping downwards, then you need to decrease the amount of light.
Rubber Plant Water Requirements
Rubber plants have two different seasons. Growing season and dormant season. Growing season occurs during the summer and this is when it needs the most water and likes to be fertilized. During the dormant season, your plant needs much less water (sometimes needing water as little as once a month!) Just make sure that your plant is in well-draining soil, as well as in a well-draining pot. This little guy hates to be sitting in water. Here’s a rule of thumb for your watering… if the leaves turn yellow or brown and fall off, then it is getting too much water. If the leaves are drooping, but don’t fall off, then your plant needs more water.For more tips on how to water your houseplants, click on the link here!
Additional Tips
If you’re worried about killing your plant as soon as it gets home, then try starting small. A smaller plant will acclimate much easier to a new environment than a larger plant will. Then if you want it to grow faster, you can put it outside during the summer (but still make sure it isn’t in direct sunlight, it receives plenty of time to acclimatize, and it receives plenty of water). In contrast, if you want your rubber plant to stay smaller, keep it in a smaller pot and trim the ends once it reaches the preferred height. This will stop its upward growth and will instead encourage further branching.
A few more things to look out for… Don’t place your rubber tree where there are cold drafts. This is sure to kill your tree. And if you’re living in a cold, drafty basement, then believe me when I say from experience that none of your ficus plants will survive! You’ll be much better off with a non-tropical plant.
Also, make sure that you clean the foliage often so that the leaves stay shiny and will be as healthy as possible.
*Note: Rubber plants are toxic to dogs and cats. For a list of plants that are toxic to pets, check out my post here. Or, for a list of non-toxic houseplants, check out my post here!*
That’s all for growing tips for Ficus elastica! If you have any more tips or fun stories about your own rubber plants, feel free to leave a comment! And if you don’t have one of these amazing plants yet, grab one from the link below!
We’ve all been there. We’ve all looked down at our sad little plant and asked ourselves this question… Why is my plant dying? Believe me. I’ve had my issues with dead plants too. But the key is to figure out what is wrong, change it, and nurse your little guy back to full health! So what are the main reasons our plants die?
**Note: This post contains affiliate links, which if purchased, I will receive a portion of the profits at no extra cost to you. This helps me to keep providing you with this awesome information!**
#1 – Improper Watering
Let’s just get this one out of the way. Overwatering is the #1 reason for plants dying. People just have this feeling like if their favorite vine doesn’t look to great, well, maybe I should water it more. No. Stop. Don’t water it more.
Then there are those of us who just get so busy with life that we come home one day, look over, and the plant has collapsed. We look in the pot and see the Sahara desert staring back at us. Yep. Been there too. Oops. These are the times when you should water it more. Try setting an alarm on your phone, or marking it on your calendar. That way it will be easier for everyone.
If you think your problem is incorrect watering, then check out my post on How to Water your Houseplant. This will give you some great watering tips!
#2 – Light Issues
So for many of us living in apartments, one of our biggest problems is either not enough light, or too much light. My little succulents are just not thriving thanks to this problem of having too little light. (That, and it’s hard to keep them away from my one-year-old!). If you need more light, try a grow light. I know Amazon has several options available for those just needing a light or two.
Also, make sure that you aren’t giving a plant too much light. Most of our interior plants are tropical plants, taken from the wild understory of the jungle. Now, a lot of these plants are used to either low light or medium light. Only a very few need bright light. But regardless… most of these plants aren’t used to direct sunlight. That means my poor little dieffenbachia that I had back in college didn’t enjoy my enthusiastic placement of it in my windowsill. Basically, it got scorched. Leaf scorch to be technical. So know which of your plants want to be in that sunny windowsill and which ones would rather have a little protection… which leads me to my next problem…
#3 – Unknown Plants
Let’s face it. Not many people can tell me the common name as well as light- and water-requirements for their favorite houseplant. If you can, then you’re doing great! But for the rest of us, it helps to know exactly what type of plant you have. This will help you place it better in your house, as well as to know what it wants from you!
#4 – Drafts
Whether it’s a warm draft or a cold draft, most plants don’t like them. Right now in the winter, I need to take special precautions for any of my plants that are near the front door. They don’t appreciate the cold air gushing in every time I take the trash out. So, if it’s the change of a season (causing different temperatures in the house, as well as switching from heating to cooling or vice versa), then the decline of your plant is probably due to the changing temperatures caused by a draft.
#5 – Change in Location
If you recently changed a plant’s location, then it could easily be declining in health because it simply doesn’t like the new spot. This can be caused by one of the previous mentioned problems (like too much or too little light, or encountering drafts), but some plants can also just be picky and not like change. The biggest culprit of having tropophobia (the fear of moving… yes I had to look that one up), is the Weeping Fig. This ficus is the most stubborn plant as it likes to stay where it’s at. If you move it to a less-favorable spot, a common side-effect is that it will drop all of its leaves and die. Yep. Dramatic. I know. So be aware, and if you need to move your plant… give it some TLC the first couple of days.
So these are the most common reasons why indoor plants die. Some other problems such as insect or disease infestation, improper potting mix, or too little or too much humidity, can also cause problems in plants. However, these are usually less common indoors. Just make sure that you have a well-draining pot and that you know the requirements of your plants. For more information, check out my post, 10 Quick Tips to Keep your Houseplant Alive. Feel free to leave any comments or questions below!
Do you struggle to keep your indoor plants alive? Believe me, I’ve had my fair share of plants dying. But not anymore! It’s very difficult to know exactly what to do and how to keep indoor plants alive. Especially when you are in an apartment or home that is limited in light or in other favorable conditions. So here are 10 tips that I’ve studied and learned through the years that will help you to keep your plants green and healthy!
**Note: This post contains affiliate links, which if purchased, I will receive a portion of the profits at no extra cost to you. This helps me to keep providing you with this awesome information!**
Tip #1: Choose Plants Wisely
When looking for interior plants, don’t just go to the store and pick one out that you like. First, think of where you are going to put it. Do you have a lot of space, or a little? Check out my posts for small interior plants and large interior plants. Also, consider if that space gets a lot of direct sunlight, a medium amount of direct sunlight, or hardly any sunlight at all. Here’s a post for plants that do well with low light conditions. Then, consider any interesting aspects of that spot. Does it get humid (placed in a bathroom for example), or is it near a door where there will be winter chills and summer heat? Try to consider all of these things, then decide which plants would fit that area. Then from that list, choose a plant that you like!
Tip #2: Know what you have Growing
Knowing what you have growing is similar to tip #1, but sometimes we can suddenly find ourselves with a mystery plant. Like when we’re given those beautiful plant baskets, but nothing is labelled! Well, my advice is to get to know what plants you have. Try Google, Pinterest, Facebook, or even just asking friends and neighbors. You can also check out my post on the top sites for indoor plant identification. It is important to know what you have growing in order to know how to best care for it.
Tip #3: Well-Draining is the Best!
Do you know why almost every plant says that it needs well-draining soil? It’s because unless you are growing a swamp plant, you will need good drainage. This goes for well-draining soil, as well as choosing a pot with good drainage. You’re looking for something that will be able to be moist for a day or two, but then dries out. This ensures that the plant doesn’t stay too wet for too long. For succulents and cacti, this means go ahead and grab some succulent and cactus potting soil. You won’t regret it!
Tip #4: Use the Right Lighting
Whether you have a plant that needs a lot of light, or hardly any light, make sure that you are following its requirements. If a low-light plant is placed in too much direct sunlight, it can kill it! And the same goes for high-light plants that are placed in low-light conditions. One way around this, though, is if you want to put a high-light plant in a low-light area, buy two of the same plant. Then you can place one in the low-light area and one in a high-light area and switch them every two weeks. This will ensure that they both will eventually get some time with the light conditions that they need.
Tip #5: Don’t Overwater!
Giving a plant too much water is one of the fastest ways to kill it. And how do you know? Stick your finger in the soil. If it feels moist, then don’t water it! Some plants like to stay a little moist, so once again, know what you’re growing. However, most indoor plants can’t survive for long being too wet. So, if you’re one of those people who water their plants to death, either try to tone it down, or only go with plants that love the water. For extra tips, check out my post on how to water your houseplant.
Tip #6: Set a Watering Schedule
This is a must-do for people living in our busy world today. Without a schedule, some days I would forget how long it had been since I had last watered. Then I would end up either over-watering, or under-watering my poor little guys. So I’ve found that it’s best to figure out about how often your plant needs water, then set a watering schedule. This can either be a Monday, Thursday, Saturday type schedule on your day planner, or maybe even a once-a-week reminder on your phone. Do what works best for you, then stay on schedule!
Tip #7: Watch the Drafts!
There are many different ways that plants can be in drafts of either warm or cold air. They can come from doors, windows, air conditioners, heaters, or even frequently used fans. Some plants can do well with warmer drafts in the winter, but the majority of indoor plants would rather be kept at a consistent temperature. So watch out for cold windowsills and drafty doorways if you want to keep your plants happy!
Tip #8: Remember to Transplant
People often buy a houseplant thinking that it will stay the same size as when they bought it. However, this is hardly the case. Most plants are sold while still young. Then they grow to their mature size in your home. So if your plant starts looking a little too big for its pot, it is time to transplant it. Moving it to a bigger pot will give it more room to spread its roots and will give it a burst of fresh growth.
Tip #9: Fertilize
Having a plant in the same soil for too long can cause it to use up a lot of the nutrients within that soil. That is why it is important to occasionally add a bit of fertilizer to give it the nutrients that it needs to keep on going. Just make sure to use an appropriate fertilizer for your plant and to apply at the recommended doses. Too much fertilizer can also quickly kill any plant. This is the fertilizer I personally use and love!
Tip #10: Try Easy Plants First
If you’re new to interior plants, or just haven’t had much luck with them in the past, then try out my list of hard-to-kill houseplants. Once you have a few of these successfully growing, then you can slowly try out more and more difficult plants. Remember, not all green thumbs are born that way. It can take years of knowledge and hands-on experience to come to understand what each plant needs. So do yourself a favor and buy one of these easy indoor plants first before you try to tackle the plant Olympics!
I hope that these tips will help you to grow beautiful interior plants! Feel free to comment with any further advice and/or stories of your own successes and not-so-successes! We’ve all had good and bad times with our plants and remember… a little knowledge about our plants can go a long way!
Whether you’re getting a jump-start to your garden or simply want some plants around the house for a cheaper price, starting from seed is great! However, it can also sometimes be tricky and frustrating. But with these 10 tips and tricks, you’ll be planting like a pro! Here is how to grow seeds indoors, with 10 tips to ensure that you have success!
Tip #1: Only use good seed…
This may seem like a no-brainer, but for all those who are hoarding seed packets out there, either plant them, or throw them out. Check the back of the seed packages for the expiration date. This date is when the seeds start getting less and less viable (fewer of the seeds will actually sprout). Storing seeds in a dry, cool place can prolong their lifespan, but make sure that you don’t wait too long. Also, purchase your seed from a reputable seed company, not just from some rando off the street! Remember, you won’t grow anything from a bad seed, no matter how good you are. (Yes, I’m looking at you seeds from ebay that never grow!!!)
The depth of soil underneath your seedlings is actually very important.Due to some physics and absorbency ratios (which I’m not going to bore you with), basically, the more soil beneath, the harder it is for your seeds to get the water. But don’t go too shallow that there’s no room for your seedling. Somewhere in the 3″-6″ range should be good for most seed, but it may vary depending on the size of your seed. The smaller the seed, the less soil it needs beneath. The bigger the seed, the more soil it needs.
Tip #3: Have proper drainage…
There are many different types of containers you can use for planting your seedlings in… from commercial seed pots, to handmade newspaper pots, to old salad containers. I’ve seen and used many different makeshift as well as professional pots. But one thing they all have to have in common is good drainage. Without proper drainage, all the water will soak to the bottom of the pot and stay there, leaving either just the top (where the seeds are) all dried up, or it can lead to a big wet mess (which can lead to a lot of other problems like mold and fungal growth). So if you are using any recycled plastics or containers, just poke some holes into the bottom to let some of that extra moisture out.
Tip #4: Use good soil…
Not all soil is made the same… quite literally! I once bought some extremely cheap soil that turned out to be just a mix of clay and decomposing pine needles. And do you know what my plants did in it? Absolutely nothing. No growth, no flowering, no nothing. Basically, you get what you pay for. So don’t try to take a cheaper way out (unless you’re doing your own composting, in which case be very careful that it is done correctly.) But for seeds, use only clean soil – a good soil will have a weed seed count on the back. Try to get one with a very low weed seed count, as well as make sure it contains a lot of organic material. You can also purchase soil that is specifically for seedlings, as it may contain additional fertilizers or other ingredients that increase drainage and will give your seeds the best environment possible. So consult your budget and see what works best for you. But remember… with soil, you get what you pay for!
Tip #5: Don’t let it get too hot…
Don’t let your pots get too warm. This is different from heating mats, which I absolutely LOVE and recommend LIKE CRAZY!!!! (Here’s the heating mat that I personally use and LOVE!!!) While heating mats and bottom heat can be beneficial, make sure that there are no hot drafts blowing over the top of your little seedlings. The biggest culprit here is the heater. Don’t place your pots in direct line of these hot currents. You don’t want the top of your soil to dry out because it can cause your seedlings to wilt and to die from the top heat. You also don’t want to expose some seedlings to direct sunlight in hot temperatures. This can lead to drying out of the top of the soil, and it can also scorch any sensitive new seedlings emerging with their small, delicate leaves.
Tip #6: Don’t let it get too cold…
Just like tip #5, you want to keep your pots at a good temperature. Starting seeds during the winter can be hard as indoor temperatures are generally colder and there can also be dangerous cold drafts from windows and doors. A big thing is to add additional heat to your soil through a heating mat. Often, indoor temperatures are still too cold for the seedlings to germinate. To fix this (and to increase germination rates), you should heat up your soil with a heating mat. This will both increase the number of seeds that sprout, but it will also decrease the chances that your seeds will die from overwatering. For those in especially cold climates, one of the warmest places in your house during the winter is on top of your refrigerator (as long as it isn’t in direct line of a heater current). If the lighting isn’t good there, then move it once the seedlings come up. Which leads to our next tip…
Tip #7: Have adequate lighting…
One of the biggest challenges indoors can be lighting. If you are lucky to have large windows and plenty of light, then enjoy! If not, then here are some tips. Having one good window as a light source, place the pot near the window (but not in any cold or hot drafts!) and turn the pot every time you water.This will help with straight growth. Now, if your seedlings are growing really tall, without a lot of leaves, then this is a sign that they need more light. There are lots of different options for supplemental lights, including boxes or strips that can even raise or lower, depending on your plant’s height. These can sometimes take up a lot of room, however, and may require some installation. My personal favorite, is this flexible lamp for those planting just a few seeds. This lamp is great for adjusting the light exactly as I need it and to continually move them as my plants get taller. Then, for those wanting to start their entire garden and then some from seed, then I would HIGHLY suggest you get this light! It’s a full-spectrum plant light that has kept my seedlings short and leafy all winter (and even grew me some GORGEOUS heads of lettuce last year in my indoor grow tent!) And on this note, remember not to place the lights too close to the seedlings as it can burn them. Likewise, too far away and the plants won’t be getting as much light as possible. Both of these plant lights are full-spectrum to be easy on your eyes, as well as have adjustable heights to help as your plants grow taller.
Tip #8: Don’t under- or over-water…
Having the right amount of water is key to seedling survival. Making sure that you have proper drainage and a good soil are all important for watering success as well. But basically, you want the top of the soil to stay moist without the bottom of the pot soaking in water. As mentioned above, this can cause a lot of problems… mainly an increase in fungal problems, which is often a seedling killer. Also, you don’t want to dry those little guys out. Seeds and seedlings are very sensitive and forgetting to water them can also mean life or death. Also, when watering, make sure that you give them a gentle spray, so as to avoid washing away any little seeds or seedlings. You don’t want a flash flood of water! Keep it to a nice little frequent sprinkle and those seeds will love it!
Tip #9: Sow at proper spacing and depth…
This may also sound pretty straightforward. However, you’d be surprised at how many seeds have a hard time because of improper seed depth and spacing. Basically, the bigger the seed, the more soil goes on top. The smaller seeds can sometimes be even just sprinkled on top of the soil and lightly pressed down to ensure good soil contact. As for spacing, follow the recommended spacing, but if the seeds are a medium to a smaller size, put a couple of seeds in each hole just to ensure that you will have at least one sprout. Then thin seedlings out to the proper spacing once they’ve sprouted.
Tip #10: Transplant at the right time…
Even I’ve transplanted my seedlings too early, just to watch them die in the new soil. Basically, wait until they have two sets of true leaves to transplant into slightly larger pots, and then into the garden (weather and seasonal conditions permitting). So what exactly is two sets of true leaves? The first set of leaves are called the cotyledon leaves. They don’t count. The next set of leaves look different. They look more like whatever plant you’ve planted. This is the first set of true leaves. Then wait for a second set to grow. Once there are two sets of leaves (may be two leaves, may be four or more, depending on the type of plant) then these little guys are ready to be moved into a more permanent home.
I hope these tips have helped! Let me know if there are any other tips or tricks that you’ve found to be useful in the comments below! Then, for even easier growing, check out these 5 Effortless Indoor Herb Garden Kits!
