3 Easy Ways to Propagate Christmas Cactus

Hey everyone! Welcome back to The Girl with a Shovel! Today I wanted to tell you all about Christmas Cactus propagation: when and how to successfully propagate your Christmas cactus!

Note: This post is written for Christmas cactus, however, everything discussed can also be used for a Thanksgiving cactus as well. Propagation methods are the same for both.

The springtime is usually the best time to propagate your Christmas cactus! You want to make sure that it is several weeks after the bloom time and at least a month before the fall dormancy period (this is when you should be giving it light treatment to stimulate Christmas blooms).

There are 3 different ways to propagate a Christmas cactus. These are: upright in soil, flat in soil, and in water. But first I wanted to cover how to get a healthy cutting, and then we will get into these three different rooting methods.

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Getting a Healthy Cutting

Each Christmas cactus branch is made up of several sections (or pads) linked together. At the very bottom of the pad (where it connects to another pad) is where you can get roots to grow. But the tricky part is that you need to separate the pads without tearing the bottom of the pad. If the bottom of the pad is damaged in any way, then the cutting will most likely fail.

If you’ve ever propagated succulent leaves, then you’ll notice the process of pulling off the leaves is very similar to pulling off the cactus pads. For a visual of good versus bad leaf cuttings, refer to my post Propagating Succulents.

The easiest way to ensure you get the complete, undamaged cactus pad is to gently twist it away from the bottom pad. By gently twisting the top pad, your cactus pads should easily come apart – no tearing involved. Got it?! Now let’s work on planting your cutting…

How to take a successful cutting for Christmas Cactus propagation.

Method #1: Propagating Upright in Soil

This method is the best if you’ve got some large cuttings (around 4 pads each) and if you have good, whole ends on your cutting (aka you took good cuttings without tearing the bottom of the pad).

Take your cutting and lay it in dry location for 1-2 days. Be sure to keep them out of direct sunlight as well. This resting period is important as it helps the plant transition from growing shoots to thinking about growing roots.

After 1-2 days, place your cutting into fresh potting soil (cactus & succulent soil mix is best), and place the end far enough down that the soil covers the bottom pad. Then water it lightly, letting it just barely dry in between watering. Give it 2-3 weeks for roots to form.

Low on cactus and succulent soil? Here’s how to mix your own! DIY SUCCULENT SOIL RECIPE!

Method #1 Summary

  • Used for large cuttings (4 pads each)
  • Dry for 1-2 days
  • NO direct sunlight
  • Use light, well-draining soil
  • Keep LIGHTLY moist
Christmas Cactus Propagation Method #!: Upright in Soil

Method #2: Propagating Flat (On Top of Soil)

This method is best for you if you want to do soil propagation, but you have smaller cuttings (2-3 pads), or if your cutting’s bottom pad has been damaged in any way. I personally used this method for a section of 2 pads that were cut off my parent plant and was missing the bottom section of the lower pad. (I wasn’t the one who took the cutting, I swear! Haha!)

Simply dry out the cutting for 1-2 days (again avoiding direct sunlight). Then, instead of planting in the soil, you will place the cutting horizontally on top of the soil. This also needs a light soil, such as a cactus & succulent soil mix. Make sure that there is good contact between the soil and the point where the 2 cactus pads meet. This is where the new roots are going to come from. Then keep it lightly moist and your cutting should root within 2-3 weeks.

A special precaution for this type of rooting… because the cactus pads are laid horizontally against the soil, it increases the chances that your cactus pad gets too wet and begins to rot. To avoid this, try to only get the soil wet when you water your succulent. Try to keep the actual cutting dry. If you find this difficult, then I would suggest you use one of the other two propagation methods.

Method #2 Summary

  • Use with shorter cuttings (2-3 pads)
  • Let dry for 1-2 days
  • NO direct sunlight
  • Lay horizontally on top of the soil
  • Use light, well-draining soil
  • Keep LIGHTLY moist
  • Get soil wet, but keep cutting relatively dry

Method #3: Christmas Cactus Propagation in Water

Christmas cactus propagation in water has been proven to be the fastest way to propagate cuttings. Watching the video below, you’ll see how Christmas cactus cuttings in water grow roots weeks before the Christmas cactus in soil. However, when you root your cuttings in water, you will still have the extra step of transferring your cuttings to soil, which can be a delicate process. So be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of each method and choose your propagation method accordingly.

The key to having success with water propagation is to have a good callus. To do this, first, get a good cutting by following the instructions above. Then, make sure that you leave it out to dry. Keep it out of direct sunlight and let it dry to the point that the leaf gets thinner, but put it in water before it gets any wrinkles. If it starts to get wrinkle lines, then you’ve left your cutting out a bit too long.

Once your cutting has dried enough (but not too much!), it will have formed a good enough callus that you can put it in water without the risk of it rotting. If your cutting does rot, then this is a sign that it didn’t form a good enough callus and it should be left out to dry longer next time.

Leave your cutting in water for several weeks, or until it has roots that are about an inch or two in length. While your cutting is in water, make sure that you change out its water every few days. This keeps the water fresh and cuts down on the chances that you will have problems with bacterial rot on your cuttings or on your roots.

Once your cuttings are ready to pot, use a well-draining soil (such as cactus & succulent soil mix, or regular soil mixed with perlite), as well as a well-draining pot. This will be extremely important in successfully transitioning your plant from water to soil.

Transitioning from Water to Soil

As you transition your cuttings, plant them in soil just like you would with any other cutting, then water it thoroughly. Keep it in a warm location with a fair amount of indirect light. At this point it can also withstand some direct morning or evening sunlight as long as temperatures don’t get too hot.

Let your plant’s soil only get slightly dry before watering it again. This means that you will be watering these cuttings a lot more than your regular Christmas cactus. Slowly decrease your watering until your plant can withstand the soil becoming almost dry between watering. This transition should be over the course of a few months and will slowly transition your plant from being in water to being in soil.

Method#3 Summary

  • Let cuttings form a callous
  • Switch out water frequently
  • Use well-draining soil
  • Keep moist when potted in soil
  • Slowly transition from water to soil

So that’s how to have successful Christmas cactus propagation! Remember to choose the method that is best for your situation. And let me know how it goes! Leave any additional questions or comments below. And feel free to join my email list for more awesome tips on how to keep your plants alive and healthy!

Happy Digging!

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Christmas Cactus Propagation Pinterest Image

33 Stunning Succulents that are Safe for Cats

Succulents Safe for Cats Cover Image

Cats and houseplants. I get it. Your furry, feline friends are always exploring, touching, sniffing, and sometimes even taste-testing your houseplants. You can’t get them to stop, so instead you want to make sure that whatever plant you bring into your home won’t hurt them. This can sometimes make cat-owners hesitant to purchase houseplants. But today I’m going to show you 33 succulents that you can safely keep, as they are non-toxic to cats! So enjoy the peace-of-mind that comes with knowing your succulent collection can grow while your precious furry friend remains safe!

*Note: I have researched these plants to the best of my ability and have found them to be safe for cats. However, I hold no liability for any incorrect information or any harm or damages caused to yourself, your pets, or your property because of this information. For further details about plant toxicity levels and what to do if your pet ingests any of these plants, please visit aspca.org or call their help number at 1-(888)-426-4435*

*Each of these plants contain an affiliate link to purchase these products at succulentsbox.com. Unfortunately, succulentsbox.com does not ship outside of the continental USA. Any readers who live outside of the continental USA will have to find a local source to purchase these succulents. I am sorry for any inconvenience this may cause.*

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#1: Crinoline Ruffles Echeveria

This beautiful Echeveria has ruffled leaves with light pink edges surrounding a blue-green center. Crinoline Ruffles is for anyone looking for something unique to add to their collection!

Purchase Crinoline Ruffles Echeveria

#2: Cymbiformis var. obtusa Haworthia

Transparent tips??? Stunning! This Haworthia variety has thick, dense leaves that open up to transparent tips. These leaves can be somewhat soft, so make sure it is protected from tipping over.

Purchase Cymbiformis var. obtusa Haworthia

#3: Red Lion Sempervivum

This deep red Sempervivum will definitely add some color to your succulent collection! The red leaves can also have green tints on the leaf edges depending on the plant and the amount of sunlight.

Purchase Red Lion Sempervivum

#4: Ghost Echeveria

The Echeveria lilacina (Ghost) has striking silver leaves that stand out when placed near other green succulents. This loose rosette also does not produce offsets very quickly, making it very happy in the same pot for a while.

Purchase Ghost Echeveria

#5: Topsy Turvy Echeveria

This large succulent has a very unique shape. Silver-green leaves twist into the center of the rosette, leaving this topsy-turvy succulent highly sought after.

Purchase Topsy Turvy Echeveria

#6: Afterglow Echeveria

Afterglow is another large Echeveria variety. It is characterized by its pink and purple leaves that form a loose, free-style rosette.

Purchase Afterglow Echeveria

#7: Living Stones Lithops

Known as “Living Stones”, Lithops are one of the coolest, trending succulents of the decade! As they grow, they produce a large flower in the middle of their two leaves, then they go dormant for several months, sometimes completely receding back into the soil. If you want an ultra low-maintenance succulent, then this is right for you!

Purchase Living Stones Lithops

#8: Venosa Haworthia

This triangular succulent is sure to make a statement with its green, webbed leaves. It is also a fast producer of offsets, giving you plenty of little plants to either add to your collection or to gift to a friend.

Purchase Venosa Haworthia

#9: Cubic Frost Echeveria

Cubic Frost is a soft pink succulent with wedge-shaped leaves. It also grows relatively fast for a succulent, making it perfect for the impatient gardener!

Purchase Cubic Frost Echeveria

#10: Black Knight Echeveria

The ‘Black Knight’ Echeveria isn’t your typical soft pastel succulent. Instead, dark green centers fade to black edges! The more sun this plant gets, the darker its leaves… so plan accordingly!

Purchase Black Knight Echeveria

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#11: Mardi Gras Aeonium

This colorful succulent shows the best of nature’s paint brush! Yellow and green stripes give way to purple tips on these stunning succulents.

Purchase Mardi Gras Aeonium

#12: Suncup Variegata Aeonium

Each Suncup is a unique blend of green variegation on a yellow rosette. It is one of the smaller Aeoniums, but it does readily produce offsets to make up for its smaller size.

Purchase Suncup Variegata Aeonium

#13: Elegans Echeveria (Mexican snowball)

The ‘Mexican Snowball’ Echeveria has a dense, thick covering of blue-tinted leaves. These dense leaves remind us all why these succulents are called rosettes!

Purchase Elegans Echeveria

#14: Crested Frosty Echeveria

This unusual succulent is covered in soft white fur, which makes it a huge favorite! However, it’s name is deceiving as this Crested Frosty actually does not do well in the cold.

Purchase Crested Frosty Echeveria

#15: Cobweb Sempervivum

It’s no wonder this variety is known as the ‘Cobweb’ Sempervivum. The white threads would be worrisome on any other plant!

Purchase Cobweb Sempervivum

#16: Calcareum Sempervivum

The Calcareum features dense leaves, all tipped with a deep red. This warns people of its somewhat sharp tips, though it’s still a lot safer than your cacti!

Purchase Calcarium Sempervivum

#17: Holiday Cactus Schlumbergera

Speaking of cacti, this tropical cactus should be treated more like an orchid than a cactus. Long, scale-like stems bear large, bright flowers when given a strict lighting regiment during the fall.

Purchase Holiday Cactus Schlumbergera

#18: Mahogany Sempervivum

A more open version of the ‘Calcarium’, the ‘Mahogany’ also has red-tipped leaves. But the more sun this plant receives, the darker the leaves will become!

Purchase Mahogany Sempervivum

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#19: Violet Queen Echeveria

The Violet Queen has long, blue-green leaves that take on a pastel pink color on the edges when it gets cold. It also produces offsets rapidly, so be prepared to have several of these cuties!

Purchase Violet Queen Echeveria

#20: Black Rose Zwartkopf Aeonium

‘Black Rose’ is one of the most popular Aeonium varieties. And it’s no wonder! The deep black leaves with the green center is so stunning it makes everyone want to start up a succulent collection!

Purchase Black Rose Zwartkopf Aeonium

#21: Kiwi Aeonium

The Kiwi is one of my personal favorites! Its leaves range from green to yellow to white depending on the amount of sunlight. And to top it off, the edges stay perfectly lined in an almost fruity shade of red!

Purchase Kiwi Aeonium

#22: Subsessilis Echeveria

For a softer shade of pink, get yourself a Subsessilis! The light pink tips paired with the blue-green color of its leaves makes it a dreamy pallet of soft pastels.

Purchase Subsessilis Echeveria

#23: Dinner Plate Aeonium

This succulent is named ‘Dinner Plate’ because of its large, flat shape that can get up to 2 feet in diameter! However, under good care it doesn’t stay flat and instead forms smooth, rounded hills of green.

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#24: Lily Pad Aeonium

When people think of succulents, they usually picture something like the Lily Pad. Thick, fleshy green leaves form a picture-perfect rosette every time!

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#25: Doris Taylor Echeveria

This furry succulent is the perfect companion to your own furry feline friend! The hard part will be keeping your hands off this little guy!

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#26: Perle von Numberg Echeveria

Perle von Numberg is one of the most widely sold succulents. It’s easy to find this beautiful, pink Echeveria, so pick one up today, or feel free to have it shipped straight to your door!

Purchase Perle von Numberg Echeveria

#27: Painted Nodulosa Echeveria

The Painted Nodulosa is truly a masterpiece of dark green and wine red. And it’s beauty is only improved by the fact that it is one of our succulents that are safe for your cat! Just be aware that this plant tends to grow upwards instead of having a spreading habit.

Purchase Painted Nodulosa Echeveria

#28: Zebra Plant Haworthia

Zebra plants are easily identified for their white spines that travel up each individual leaf. As they continue to grow upward, they will also produce lots of new offsets at their base. This is why Haworthias are perfect for people wanting to fill their house with succulents!

Purchase Zebra Plant Haworthia

#29: Window Haworthia

The ‘Window’ Haworthia is a succulent that uses its transparent leaves as a window! This allows light to penetrate deeper into its leaves. This zero-waste succulent shows how something can be efficient and stunning at the same time.

Purchase Window Haworthia

#30: Blue Rosette Echeveria Minima

This succulent is one of the small varieties of Echeveria. However, this doesn’t stop it from producing lots of offsets. This succulent fills its pot with little blue rosettes in no time!

Purchase Blue Rosette Echeveria Minima

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#31: Chroma Echeveria

Each and every ‘Chroma’ Echeveria is slightly different! Leaf colors can be green, brown, purple, red, or even pink. This little succulent is definitely one-of-a-kind!

Purchase Chroma Echeveria

#32: Donkey’s Tail Sedum

This Sedum is widely known and loved! Very few people know that it’s actually one of our succulents that are safe for your cats! As if we need any more reasons to buy this beautiful trailing succulent!

Purchase Donkey’s Tail Sedum

#33: Raindrops Echeveria

Raindrops is truly unique with its large ‘raindrops’ that grow on the tips of its leaves! This blue-green succulent can also get pink tips when given lots of sunlight!

Purchase Raindrops Echeveria

That’s it for my list of 33 stunning succulents that are safe for cats! Enjoy your succulents, while knowing that your curious cats are safe! And check out this list of Houseplants that are Safe for Pets for even more ideas!

If you have any questions or comments, feel free to leave them below. Then to get even more awesome tips, join my email list! Every new subscriber gets a free welcome gift!

Then, if you want some more help with your succulents, here’s my post that explains the secret to succulent watering! Here is the answer to How Often Should You Water Succulents?

Happy Digging!

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5 Effortless Indoor Herb Garden Kits

Wouldn’t you love it if you could just press a button and have all the fresh culinary herbs that you want?! Some people might think this is crazy, but with modern technology, we are pretty close to having fresh, kitchen-grown herbs at just the press of a button! Still seem too good to be true? Well check out these five indoor herb garden kits that truly make growing herbs effortless.

Wouldn’t you love it if you could just press a button and have all the fresh culinary herbs that you want?! Some people might think this is crazy, but with modern technology, we are pretty close to having fresh, kitchen-grown herbs at just the press of a button! Still seem too good to be true? Well check out these five indoor herb garden kits that truly make growing herbs effortless.

As far as Indoor Herb Garden kits go, the two leading brands for ease of use and sustainability are Aerogarden and Click and Grow. While this post does contain affiliate links, this in no way swayed my opinion of these products. These grow kits really are as awesome as they seem! So here are the top 5 indoor gardens, along with the pro’s and con’s of each to ensure you get the one that fits your personal needs!

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#1: Click & Grow Smart Gardens

Click & Grow’s Smart Gardens are simple to set up and easy to grow. Just attach the light, pop in the seed pods, and add water mixed with the provided nutrients. Then when you plug it in, a timer will automatically start, setting you up for 16 hours of lights on, and 8 hours of lights off. This is convenient for people who struggle with setting manual timers, but it might require you to get up early one day if you want it to turn off earlier in the evening.

Click & Grow offers 3-pod systems, 9-pod systems, or a bundled shelving set of 3, 9-pod systems totaling 27-pods. All of the features are the same regardless of size, so simply purchase according to your needs!

Pro’s

  • 3-pod system one of the cheapest indoor garden systems
  • relatively quiet
  • lights blink when low on water (effective reminder)
  • comes with height extenders to make the light taller or shorter
  • automatic 16 hours on, 8 hours off

Con’s

  • no manual light settings
  • some people have difficulty refilling the water without spilling
  • low water lights (blinking) can be annoying to some people

#2: Tasty Sprout by Aerogarden

This is a unique system as it was a mix of Aerogarden’s indoor systems along with Tasty’s low-cost practical cooking methods. What you get is a small, recipe-driven indoor herb system that appeals to the masses, but only has a few of Aerogarden’s touches.

If you are limited on space, or you want a cheap option to get started with indoor gardening, then this is the kit for you!

Indoor Herb Garden Kit Tasty Sprout by Aerogarden & Tasty

Pro’s

  • Small, 3-pod design
  • Pods sold in recipe packs of southwestern, ranch, Caprese salad, and coctail/mocktail packs
  • inexpensive for an automatic growing kit

Con’s

  • no manual timing system – run 18 hours on, 6 hours off from time it’s plugged in
  • only 12″ tall
  • made from a light plastic material
  • uses an aerator pump, which some people find to be too loud

#3: Aerogarden Harvest

The Aerogarden Harvest is the most basic of Aerogarden’s indoor garden systems (aside from their Tasty hybrid). That being said, it is still an amazing system! It uses a water pump system instead of an aerator pump, making it run silently when compared to the Tasty Sprout. The Harvest also has several buttons on the front to manually set your light timings. It also keeps track of how many days you’ve been growing, as well as tells you how many more days you have until you need to add more liquid fertilizer (included in purchase).

Overall, this 6-pod system is perfect for anyone who is serious about indoor gardening, but not quite ready to take the leap to one of the more expensive models.

Indoor Herb Garden Kit Aerogarden Harvest

Pro’s

  • Cheapest of the mainstream Aerogarden systems
  • quiet pump system
  • adjustable manual lighting settings

Con’s

  • plastic build
  • takes up slightly more space than the 6-pod Harvest Elite

#4: Aerogarden Harvest Elite 360

At first glance, this system appears to be only a rounded, metal version of the Aerogarden Harvest. However, the Harvest Elite 360 has a few essential features that left customers feeling glad they made the upgrade.

First, the LCD display makes the system much more user-friendly than the Harvest. For example, you can simply choose the type of plants you are growing (such as herbs or flowers), and it will automatically set up the optimal growth settings for you.

Another game-changer is the vacation mode. By activating vacation mode, your system will automatically shorten the light times and decrease the water usage so you won’t have to worry about running out of water while you’re gone! This system really takes care of you! So if you want an indoor garden system that won’t die during your extended holidays, then you should consider the Harvest Elite!

Indoor Herb Garden Kits Aerogarden Harvest Elite 360

Pro’s

  • LCD display with manual timing adjustments
  • Suggested settings for different plant types
  • smaller than Harvest, but still fits 6 pods
  • Stainless Steel build
  • Vacation mode!!!

Con’s

  • Several people complained that their LCD display was broken out-of-the-box and they had to get a replacement system from the company (free of charge, but took longer)
  • More expensive than the Harvest system

#5: Aerogarden Bounty Elite

Now this system truly has it all! With a touchscreen display you can connect it to your WiFi and use either your Alexa device or the Aerogarden app to adjust any settings, turn on/off your lights, and check on the status of your plants. The lights are also dimmable with the touch of a button, as well as has a sunrise/sunset setting to slowly fade in or out of the day.

Overall, this indoor herb garden kit has everything you need to be as involved or as hands-free as you want in the growing process! From the suggested settings and vacation mode, to the voice-command lights off, this system is any smart gardener’s dream come true!

Indoor Herb Garden Kits Aerogarden Bounty Elite

Pro’s

  • Touchscreen manual adjust settings
  • WiFi enabled
  • Alexa compatible
  • 9-pod capability
  • Water-level indicator
  • Vacation mode
  • Suggested settings based on plant type
  • Choice to have water and fertilizer alerts sent to cell phone
  • 1-touch light dimmer
  • Sunrise/Sunset mode

Con’s

  • Takes up slightly more space
  • Most expensive of the Aerogarden systems

That’s it for the top 5 effortless indoor herb garden kits! Honestly, all of these systems require very little setup and maintenance and will have you harvesting your favorite herbs all year long! For some quick inspiration, check out this list of The 5 Best Vegetables to Grow Indoors. And as always, feel free to leave any questions or comments below, including any comments of any experiences you’ve had with any of these machines! Then, make sure to join my email list to get more awesome tips, as well as to receive a free welcome gift straight to your inbox today!

Happy Digging!

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9 Things to Avoid when Planting Strawberries

How to Plant Strawberries Cover Photo

Are you looking to plant strawberries this year? Maybe you’ve tried before and for some reason you didn’t get the great harvest you wanted. Or maybe you’re simply new to this and want a few extra tips. Either way, I understand how sometimes we don’t need people telling us how to plant strawberries. Instead, we need to know what you could be doing wrong, and how to avoid it! So here are the 9 things to avoid when planting strawberries. Because by avoiding these things, you are sure to have an amazing harvest!

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#1: Avoid Planting Strawberries from Seed

It can be a lot cheaper to plant your strawberries from seed, but if you want to actually harvest strawberries, then you will be better off purchasing bare-root or potted plants. This is because it will take at least 2 years of nurturing your seedling before it will finally give you strawberries. I don’t know about you, but this is a long time when compared to your potted plants producing strawberries in as little as 2 months…

Also, if you use seed from a store-bought strawberry, then you won’t know your strawberry variety. I’ll explain a bit more about why this is important in #4. So go ahead and just pay the extra couple of dollars for an established plant. You will be extremely glad that you did.

#2: Avoid Planting Strawberries in Pots

If pots are your only option, then go for it. However, if you live in a climate that gets below freezing, then any unprotected potted plants will freeze. This means that they will not come back in the winter. Because of this, it is much smarter to plant them in the soil where they have extra protection from the cold. This will ensure that they come back year after year.

If you HAVE to grow in pots, then once temperatures begin to drop and your plant is done producing, place it somewhere it will be protected from extremely cold temperatures. A lot of people choose to place their pots in an unheated garage. Also try to insulate it from the cold using straw, mulch, old blankets, etc. This will keep your strawberries’ roots from freezing and will ensure that they come back the next year.

#3: Avoid Poor Soil

Strawberry plants need a lot of nutrients in the soil in order to maintain high production of strawberries. If you plant in poor soil, then you won’t get as many strawberries. To improve your soil, mix in some compost before planting and consider adding a vegetable fertilizer halfway through the growing season.

#4: Avoid Unknown Varieties

You need to know what type of strawberries you have because it will ultimately determine the size of berry and the size and time of harvest. These are your three main options:

June-bearing Strawberries

These plants produce one large harvest of strawberries (usually in the early spring). Then, they produce runners for the rest of the season. This variety is best if you need a large harvest of strawberries all at once. These strawberries are usually used to make jams, pies, etc.

Ever-bearing Strawberries

These varieties will usually give you two harvests: one in the early spring, and one in the early fall. They can also produce a few strawberries in between these two larger harvests. One downside to ever-bearing, however, is that they don’t produce as many runners because they are busy producing fruit. These varieties are best for people wanting some larger harvests, but also want some continuous fruit throughout the season.

Day-neutral Strawberries

These strawberry varieties are technically in the ever-bearing group, but they produce a more even, continuous supply of strawberries throughout the growing season. These are also a great choice for people who want a lighter, but continuous supply of strawberries.

#5: Avoid Planting Strawberries Too Deep or Too Shallow

These plants are extremely picky when it comes to rooting depth. If you plant it too deep (covering the crown of the plant), then it is likely to rot. On the other hand, if it is planted too shallow, the roots are likely to dry up (and strawberry plants do not like dry roots). I try to plant my strawberries at the depth that they are already growing in their pot.

If you are planting bare-root plants, then find the little skirt where the leaf stems are attached to the base of the plant. This little skirt of plant material is the crown. Plant it at a depth where the soil will cover about half of the crown. Make sure to watch the video below to see the correct depth to plant your bare-root strawberries.

#6: Avoid Planting Too Close Together

Each variety has a specific spacing recommendation. Follow this recommendation. If you place your plants too close together, it decreases the air flow around your plant’s base and lower leaves. This can increase your chances of having a disease problem.

You also want to keep in mind any runners that might develop. If your plants are too close together, then you will need to remove the runners in order to keep your plants from crowding your space.

A little unsure of plant spacing? Check out this awesome video that explains your optimal plant spacing, as well as shows you how to plant your bare-root strawberries at the correct depth!

#7: Avoid Planting Near These…

Avoid growing your strawberries next to any plants in the Brassica family. These include cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, kohlrabi, and kale. These plants will have stunted growth when grown next to each other.

You should also avoid planting your strawberry plants next to tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, melons, mint, or eggplants. These plants are all susceptible to the same diseases as your strawberry plants. So by planting near these other plants, or in a bed that has been growing these plants in the past several years, it will increase your chances of having diseases in your strawberry plants.

For a list of plants that would be good to place near your strawberries, check out Balcony Garden Web’s post, 13 Best Strawberry Companion Plants.

#8: Avoid Letting your Plant Dry Out

Strawberry plants like to stay a bit on the moist side. If your plants get too dry (especially in the hot summer temperatures), then it will stop any fruit production. This is especially harmful to the ever-bearing varieties, as it will stop your harvest. So make sure to keep your plants lightly moist and avoid letting it dry out.

#9: Avoid Letting Fruit Sit on the Ground

Strawberries will hang down to the ground as they get larger and heavier. Because of this, most strawberries end up laying directly on the soil. However, strawberries laying directly on the soil are much more likely to have diseases and pests claim them before you do. So make sure that you lay down something like straw, gravel, or black plastic to keep your strawberries from sitting directly on the soil.

Those are the 9 things to avoid when planting strawberries! Let me know if you have any other questions or comments by leaving them below. And for more awesome tips, subscribe to my email list! Every new subscriber gets a free welcome guide full of expert tips to help you become a master grower! Then make sure that you share this post on your favorite social media channel! You never know how many of your friends are also wanting to enjoy harvesting their own delicious, home-grown strawberries!

Happy Digging!

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How to Plant Strawberries Pinterest Image

7 Things You Should Never Do when Planting Tomatoes

How to Plant Tomatoes Cover Photo

Do you want to do things right when planting your tomatoes? Do you want to grow lots of large, tasty tomatoes? If you do these 7 things, then you will probably still get a tomato harvest. However, if you don’t do these 7 things when you plant your tomatoes, then your harvest has the potential to be HUGE!!! So, if you want to be the envy of all your gardening friends, then make sure you never do these 7 things…

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#1: Never Plant your Tomatoes in the Same Place

Now, I know this is a pretty heated topic that gets tossed around a lot between home gardeners. Some will tell you that rotating your vegetable’s location is a must, while others will say they’ve never rotated their plants and they’ve have had great results for over 20 years. But here’s the deal…

Tomatoes will use different nutrients than other vegetables. They also have specific pests that enjoy eating them. Ideally, you can supplement the nutrients by adding compost and fertilizer year after year. So that problem is solved. And some would say that if you have a small garden, then your pests are going to find your tomatoes eventually.

However, for the new gardener, I would say don’t worry about making a huge spreadsheet tracking plant families and religiously rotating. Instead, if you don’t want to add a lot of nutrients to your soil year after year, then just plant your tomatoes somewhere they haven’t been for a couple of years. So for all of you beginners, NEVER plant your tomatoes in the same place, and your plants will stay healthy!

Never Plant in Same Location

#2: Never Plant in Cold Soil

Tomato plants like to stay warm. If you plant your tomatoes too early, it will actually stunt your tomato plant’s growth. Don’t plant it until night temperatures are consistently around 50 F (10 C). At this point your soil should be warm enough for your plants.

Never Plant in Cold Soil

#3: Never Place at Original Planting Depth

When you plant your tomatoes, cut off any lower branches. Leave the top branches intact (more or less depending on the size of your plant). Then place it low enough in the soil that all of the bare stem is buried. Roots will grow from the exposed stem and will give your plant a much larger and established root system. And more roots will give you a healthier plant, which will in turn give you a bigger, better harvest.

Confused by this step? Watch the YouTube video at the bottom of this post to see it in action!

How to Plant Tomatoes: Never Plant at Original Depth

#4: Never Cut the Edges of your Stem

Some people ‘nick’ the sides of their tomato plant stem before planting it beneath the soil. In theory, this will stimulate more locations of root growth. however, this also opens up more locations for bacteria to enter your plant. This can also severely damage your plant if you aren’t experienced with this method. Because of these two reasons, I suggest that you should never cut your stem. The only marks it should have is the pruning cuts where you removed the lower branches.

How to Plant Tomatoes: Never Cut the Sides

#5: Never Wait to Add Support

You should add your support system (tomato cage, poles, trellis, etc.) at the time you are planting. If you wait to install a support system until the plant is large enough to need it, you will most likely damage your plant’s root system during installation. And if you damage the root system, then your harvest will definitely take a hit as well. So don’t wait to add support! Instead, make it a habit to install it when you plant.

How to Plant Tomatoes: Never Wait to Add Support

#6: Never Plant in an Empty Hole

When you dig a hole for your tomato plant, don’t just refill it with soil and be done with it. Instead, you should fill your hole with things your plant will use over the course of the summer. The most common items added to the bottom of the hole includes egg shells, coffee grounds, worm castings, and small amounts of compost. If you nourish your plants from the start, then they will reward you with a great harvest!

How to Plant Tomatoes: Never Plant in an Empty Hole

#7: Never Plant Next to These…

There are several types of plants that will fight with your tomatoes. You should never plant your tomatoes next to these:

  1. Fennel, Walnut, or Dill – all inhibit growth of tomato plants
  2. Corn, Potatoes, Eggplant, or Peppers – all share the same pests and diseases, so grouping causes an increase of pests or diseases
  3. The Entire Brassica Family – broccoli, cabbage, kale, kohlrabi, Brussels sprouts, turnips, collards, and rutabaga… these guys just don’t get along
Never Plant Tomatoes Next to These...

So those are the 7 things you should never do when planting tomatoes. I hope this list gave you some ideas of what not to do, as well as some ideas of what you should be doing instead! If you have any questions or comments, feel free to leave them below.

I’ve also included an awesome YouTube video from The Rusted Garden showing exactly how to plant your tomatoes. He also includes a few great tips on how to care for them as they grow, so make sure to hit the play button below!

Happy Digging!

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How to Plant Potatoes at Home: 11 Things You Should Know

Are you wanting to grow potatoes at home? Do you want a huge, delicious harvest, but aren’t sure how to plant potatoes in a way that will achieve amazing results? No worries. I’ve got you covered! By following these 11 tips, you’ll be sure to have the best harvest possible! So here are the 11 things you should know before planting your potatoes at home…

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#1: Do NOT use Store-Bought Potatoes

I know it’s tempting to grab that bag of potatoes out of your cupboard and get planting. However, some of these potatoes have been chemically treated to keep them from sprouting (keeping them good to eat for longer). So to be sure that your potato is going to grow well (and to ensure that it’s disease-free), then make sure you purchase seed potatoes or potato slips to grow your potatoes. Or, as another option, you can also purchase potatoes from your local farmer’s market. These will be chemical-free!

How to Plant Potatoes: Don't Use Store-Bought Potatoes

#2: You Don’t Need to Sprout your Potatoes

Sprouting your potatoes before planting isn’t necessary. If you plant your potatoes before they sprout, then they might take a few extra days before emerging from the soil. So, letting them sprout first or not, you’ll get a great potato harvest either way.

How to Plant Potatoes: Sprouting not Necessary

#3: You Can Start your Potatoes in Water

If you still choose to sprout your potatoes before planting (no judging here!), then you can place it straight into a sunny window to sprout. However, if you want to start sprouting and rooting your potato, then put it in water! Simply use toothpicks to hold it up in a cup, then fill it with enough water to cover half of the potato. Wait about a week and you should see signs of your potato growing! (Only be sure that if you cut your potato, give it several days to seal the cut before placing it in water.)

How to Plant Potatoes: Root in Water

#4: Don’t Plant the Entire Potato

If you’re growing large potatoes, then you don’t need to plant the entire potato. Instead, use a sharp, clean knife to cut it into sections that have 2-3 eyes each. (The eyes are the little knots in the potato.) After cutting it, leave the pieces out to dry for 48 hours before planting. This will give you many more plants, so keep this in mind when you are purchasing your seed potatoes!

How to Plant Potatoes: Cut into Smaller Sections

#5: You NEED Loose Soil

If you have hard, clay soil, then you will need to amend it, or bring in new soil to plant your potatoes. This is because potatoes are specialized roots that grow to store the plant’s nutrients. If your roots have a hard time pushing against hard, compact soil, then your potatoes will also have a hard time growing. This means that in hard soil, your overall harvest will be smaller. This is why it’s essential that you have loose soil.

For tips on how to loosen up any hard soil, watch the video below!

How to Plant Potatoes: You Need Loose Soil

#6: Plant Eyes Up

When placing your potato cuttings in the soil, place them so the eyes (or sprouts) are facing up. This gives your stems a straight shot up and out of the soil. If you place them down, this will make it harder for your potato’s shoots to emerge.

How to Plant Potatoes: Plant Eyes Up

#7: Mound the Plants

When your plant sprouts and grows around 6 inches (15 cm) tall, add more soil around the base of it to cover all but the top leaves. Then once it has grown to be about 6 inches (15 cm) above the soil once more, push up the soil around it again. This is called ‘mounding’. Mounding your potato plants will increase the amount of roots your plant grows, which in turn, will increase the amount of potatoes that your plant produces.

How to Plant Potatoes: Mound Plants

#8: Fertilize with a High P & K Fertilizer

P & K stand for Phosphorous and Potassium (or Potash on your fertilizer label). Make sure that your fertilizer has a good ratio of P and K, but has a lower N value. This will be something like 5-20-12, with a lower 1st number and a higher 2nd and 3rd number. Phosphorous encourages more root growth, while Potassium is good for the overall health of the plant. Do not fertilizer with a high Nitrogen fertilizer, or you might end up with a big, lush potato plants that have very few actual potatoes.

How to Plant Potatoes: Fertilize

#9: Harvest at the Right Time

The time to harvest your potatoes is around 2-3 weeks after it starts flowering. At this time the plant will also start falling over and looking wilted. Once this starts to happen, you know that your potatoes are ready to harvest!

How to Plant Potatoes: Harvesting

#10: Soft-skinned Potatoes Don’t Store

If your potato’s skin is soft and can be brushed off with your finger, then you know that the potato hasn’t fully matured. Most likely you will have a harvest where some of them have matured, but some of them haven’t. Make sure that the soft-skinned potatoes don’t go into storage. They will need to be cooked and eaten within the next several days.

How to Plant Potatoes: Do Not Store Soft Potatoes

#11: Let Dry Before Storing

For all of your hard-skinned potatoes, you will need to let them air-dry in a cool, shaded location for several days. If stored too quickly, your potatoes might rot. Air-drying gets rid of any excess moisture that might still be in the plant.

How to Plant Potatoes: Let Dry

Those are the 11 things you should know before planting potatoes at home! I wish you the best of luck and a happy harvest! And make sure you share this post with your other gardening friends.

Not sure where to plant your potatoes? Find out your potato plant’s light requirements in my post How Much Sun do my Plants Need?!

Happy Digging!

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Top 5 Easiest Herbs to Grow Indoors

Ever since I’ve been growing herbs indoors, I’ve noticed that some of my herbs grow lush and beautiful, but some of my herbs have the hardest time indoors. So I did my research to see if it was just me or if others were having problems with specific herbs in their indoor gardens as well. And do you know what I found??? Some herbs consistently do better than others when planted indoors! So if you’re starting an indoor herb garden (or just looking to expand) definitely try out this list of easy-to-grow indoor herbs first! Because everyone deserves to have a big, beautiful, and easy edible garden!!!

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Easy Herbs to Grow Indoors #1: Rosemary

Rosemary is an extremely versatile herb. It is used to create butters, oils, vinegars, and dressings. It can also be used to flavor chicken, pork, or even fish. But my personal favorite way to use rosemary is to cook it into my breads and potatoes! Yum!!!

As an indoor edible, rosemary is extremely easy to grow. The biggest thing to watch for (or the main killer of this plant) is too much water. Especially in the winter when the plant isn’t actively growing. 

For everything you need to know about growing rosemary indoors, check out my post Indoor Rosemary Plant Care!

Easy Herbs to Grow Indoors #2: Oregano

Oregano is a great herb to add into dressings, marinades, and sauces. It adds a homemade Italian taste to almost any pizza or pasta! And what’s the best thing about this herb?! It has a stronger flavor as a fresh herb, than it does when it’s dried. Which means that you can get along with a smaller plant, while still achieving that classic oregano taste!

To grow this herb, it needs to have a lot of sun, and dry out between watering. But don’t put any store-bought plants in your brightest windows ledge right away (unless it is winter-time). Instead, slowly acclimate your plant to warmer temperatures and brighter light by leaving it in the heat for 30 minutes more each day. This will ensure that any greenhouse-grown plant will have the time it needs to adjust!

For more in-depth instructions on how to care for this herb, check out my post, Indoor Oregano Plant Care!

Easy Herbs to Grow Indoors #3: Mint

It’s probably no wonder that mint made it onto my list of easiest herbs to grow indoors. If any of you have planted mint outdoors, you’ll know that this herb grows so well it can start becoming a weed! That’s why growing mint indoors can be a great solution for the lazy gardener who doesn’t want to be pulling mint sprigs out of their lawn!

To grow mint indoors, make sure that it gets plenty of direct sunlight. This, combined with a good vegetable fertilizer will help it to grow those large, minty leaves that everyone loves! Then, if it’s starting to die off, simply take some cuttings and root them in straight water! So simple!

For more information on how to grow your own mint plant indoors, check out my post Indoor Mint Plant Care!

Easy Herbs to Grow Indoors #4: Chives

From eggs to potatoes, and soups to salads, chives are my favorite herb to grow indoors! This is not only because it is easy to keep alive and thriving, but also because it can be put  on almost anything!!!

Chives will need a little more  water than these other Mediterranean herbs. But you still need to make sure that you don’t over-water your chives. A good rule of thumb is to make sure that the soil can get lightly dry in between watering. This will help to avoid fungus gnats and root rot, but still keep your chive plant happy!

To learn more about how to grow chives indoors, check out my post Indoor Chive Plant Care!

Easy Herbs to Grow Indoors #5: Thyme

Thyme is a great herb to season your soups, sauces, and breads, as well as your chicken, potatoes, and rice. Thyme is also a great source of vitamin C, and has lots of great health benefits!

To grow thyme, the biggest thing you need to watch for is the watering. Thyme doesn’t like to be too wet, especially during the winter when it goes dormant. So make sure that you allow the soil to dry down to the first inch before you water it again.

For more in-depth information on how to grow thyme indoors, check out my post Indoor Thyme Plant Care.

That’s it for my list of the easiest herbs to grow indoors! If you are just starting out in your indoor gardening, then make sure to go easy on yourself by starting with one of these herbs first. Then you can add some of the harder herbs to grow as you master the basics! And if you’re looking for more indoor herb inspiration, check out my post, Top 5 Effortless Indoor Herb Kits!

Happy Digging!

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How Much Sun do my Plants Need?

how-much-sun-do-my-plants-need
A Reference Guide for Edible Plants

It is extremely difficult to remember exactly how much sun each of our different plants need. So that’s why I’m providing this awesome resource guide to you! Here’s a list of the most common fruits, vegetables, and herbs along with how much sunlight they each need… so you will never have to ask yourself “How much sun do my plants need?” again!!!

Vegetables – Light Requirements (in hours/day)

Artichoke 6-8 hrs

Arugula 6 hrs

Asian Greens 2-3 hrs

Asparagus 8 hrs

Beans 8-10 hrs

Beets 6 hrs

Broccoli 6 hrs

Brussels Sprouts 6 hrs

Cabbage 6 hrs

Carrot 6-8 hrs

Cauliflower 6 hrs

Celery 6 hrs

Chard, Swiss 8 hrs

Chicory (Radicchio) 4 hrs

Chinese Cabbage 5 hrs

Collards 5 hrs

Corn 6-8 hrs

Cucumber 8-10 hrs

Eggplant 8-10 hrs

Fennel 6-8 hrs

Garlic 6-8 hrs

Kale 6-8 hrs

Leek 4 hrs

Lettuce 8-10 hrs

Melons (Watermelon) 8-10 hrs

Mesclun 2-3 hrs

Okra 6-8 hrs

Onion 3-4 hrs

Parsnip 8 hrs

Peanut 8-10 hrs

Pea 6-8 hrs

Pepper 6-8 hrs

Potato 6-8 hrs

Radish 6 hrs

Rutabaga 6-8 hrs

Spinach 4-5 hrs

Squash, Pumpkins 8-10 hrs

Sweet Potato 6-8 hrs

Tomatillo 8-10 hrs

Tomato 8-10 hrs

Turnip 6-8 hrs

Fruits – Light Requirements (in hours/day)

Apple 6-8 hrs

Apricot 6-8 hrs

Avocado 6-8 hrs

Banana 8-10 hrs

Blackberry 6-8 hrs

Blueberry 4-6 hrs

Cherry 6-8 hrs

Citrus 8-10 hrs

Currant 6-8 hrs

Grape 7 hrs

Guava 8-10 hrs

Kiwifruit 8-10 hrs

Pear 8 hrs

Plum, Prune 8-10 hrs

Pomegranate 8-10 hrs

Raspberry 6-8 hrs

Strawberry 8-10 hrs

Herbs – Light Requirements (in hours/day)

Basil 6-8 hrs

Chives 6-8 hrs

Cilantro/Coriander 6-8 hrs

Dill 6-8 hrs

Lavender 6-8 hrs

Lemon Balm 4-6 hrs

Marjoram 6-8 hrs

Mint 4-6 hrs

Oregano 6 hrs

Parsley 5-6 hrs

Rosemary 6-8 hrs

Sage 6 hrs

Tarragon 6-8 hrs

Thyme 6-8 hrs

I hope you’ve found this reference chart helpful! Let me know in the comments if you have any more questions or if you want sunlight requirements for any other plants that I don’t have listed.

Happy Digging!

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Lucky Bamboo Plant Care

Lucky Bamboo is a common houseplant that is famous for its ability to grow in pure water. But this ability also comes with its own challenges. So here is everything you need to know about lucky bamboo plant care. Let’s keep your plant green, growing, and pest-free!

*Don’t have one of these plants yet? You can buy lucky bamboo plants here!*

**Note: This post contains affiliate links, which if purchased, I will receive a small portion of the profits. This helps me to keep providing awesome information to all of you!**

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Lucky Bamboo Plant Care: Light Requirements

As you might already know, Lucky Bamboo isn’t actually a bamboo plant. Instead, it is actually a Dracaena. Because of this, it needs to be treated like a dracaena, especially when it comes to lighting.

Place your lucky bamboo somewhere it will only get indirect sunlight. Keep it out of direct sunlight. This plant will easily burn if it gets too much direct sunlight. If this happens, the leaf will begin to turn a pale yellow color. These portions can be trimmed off and removed, only make sure that it is safe from getting sunburned in the future. This plant also does well in low light situations but growth will be slower.

Lucky Bamboo Plant Care - Keep your lucky bamboo out of direct sunlight.

Lucky Bamboo Plant Care: Water Requirements

I usually see one of two problems with lucky bamboo watering. First, people buy large, tall vases for their bamboo plant and fill the entire, tall base with water. This can be very bad for your plant. IF the water level is too far above the root system, then it has to potential to cause stem rot. Instead, only water your plant until the roots have about an inch of water covering them.

The second problem that I see is watering with tap water. Dracaenas are particularly susceptible to the chlorine and mineral deposits that are contained in tap water. If the sides of your container has a white, crusty layer, or if the tips of your plant are turning yellow, this is a sign that you’ll need to switch to distilled or bottled water.

Lucky Bamboo Plant Care - Here's how much water you should have in your pot.

Lucky Bamboo Plant Care: Additional Tips

I’ve heard people go back and forth on fertilizer needs of this plant, but I highly recommend it. To fertilize correctly though, purchase special lucky bamboo fertilizer. Then, only fertilize two to three times each summer, starting with a single application in the spring once your plant is starting to produce new growth.

Next, make sure that you are changing out the water in your container. This is very important to do, as algae or bacteria can start growing in your containers and can even cause root rot in your plants. Change out the water every 2 weeks.

If you see any algae or bacterial growth, thoroughly clean your container and any pebbles or rocks you have in it. Then, rinse your plant’s roots well and place it back in the container. Repeat this once a week until no algae or bacteria has been seen for a month, then you can go back to changing out the water every two weeks.

It is also best to fertilize your plant when you add new water so your lucky bamboo will have a week or two to absorb the nutrients before the water is switched out.

Lucky Bamboo Plant Care - Fertilizer and changing out the water will keep your plant healthy and green.

I hope you enjoy carrying for your lucky bamboo plant and that it brings you added prosperity and happiness! Leave any additional comments or questions below!

Happy Digging!

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How to Care for Christmas Cactus

Care-for-Christmas-Cactus-Cover

A Christmas cactus can be a beautiful and fun houseplant to own! Not only does it add a bit of warmth to the holidays, but if given good treatment, it can bloom every Christmas for up to 30 years! Now that’s one long life for a plant! But to keep our Christmas cactus alive and well for all those years, we need to know how to properly care for our Christmas cactus! So here’s what you need to know…

Don’t have a Christmas cactus yet? You can get one here!

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Care for Christmas Cactus: Light Requirements

For proper care, we first need to realize that this cactus, a Schlumbergera species, is not like or normal cacti originating from central America to the western United States. Nope… this cactus actually originates from a coastal climate in Brazil. So that being said, it isn’t used to those long hours of hot, direct sunlight. Instead, place it in an east- or west- facing window so that it gets direct sunlight in the mornings or evenings, but it stays protected from any hot, afternoon sunlight.

Here's what you need to know to care for christmas cactus... light requirements...

Care for Christmas Cactus: Water Requirements

Being a coastal cactus, this plant needs some interesting watering techniques. First, only water your Christmas cactus when the soil feels dry to the touch (about 2 inches or 5 cm down from the surface). Too much water, and your cactus will start turning yellow and the leaves will get fast and mushy. If this happens, it’s best to take some cuttings from the healthy part of your plant to propagate in case your entire plant dies from being over-watered. Here are the 3 methods you can use for Christmas Cactus Propagation. So basically let’s avoid this by only watering once the soil feels dry to the touch!

The next tip I have for you is to give your plant higher humidity levels, especially during the time when it had buds on it. If your plant doesn’t get enough humidity, or it is getting either too little water or too much water, it will drop all of its buds. So once your plant’s buds form, lightly mist it every day.

Water requirements for Christmas cactus care...

Care for Christmas Cactus: Additional Tips

As well as misting, once your plant’s buds form, you will also want to be giving it a high-phosphorous plant food once every two weeks. This will help it to stay healthy while it is at it’s most vulnerable. Next, to help with correct watering, it is VITAL that you keep it in a light, well-draining soil, such as in a cactus and succulent potting soil.

Also, as your plant blooms, remove any dead or wilting flowers. This helps it to produce even more flowers as it senses that it’s seeds didn’t fully ripen. It also keeps your Christmas cactus looking fresh and healthy! Then, once your plant has finished blooming, re-pot it into fresh soil, keeping the pot small enough to have the roots just a little cramped. Then just let it sit and enjoy it’s morning or evening sun until the following September when you’ll want to prompt it to start blooming once again!

Here are the additional tips for care for Christmas cactus...

That’s how to care for your Christmas cactus! And once again, for information on how to propagate your plant, check out my post, 3 Easy Ways to Propagate Christmas Cactus! If you enjoyed this post, please share it with your friends! Simply click on your favorite social button and it will let you share this post, no copying and pasting required! I hope you all have a wonderful holiday season and I hope your Christmas cactus stays beautiful all year round!

Happy Digging!

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